sherwin williams paint advice

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Old 06-02-16, 11:13 PM
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sherwin williams paint advice

hello

i have contracted a painter to paint the interior of a large 1000 ft/sq garage, the ceilings and walls are already covered with drywall but not taped. i would like to paint the interior all white to brighten it up.

the contractor gave me three choices of sherwin williams paint
1)flat master hide (least expensive)
2)200 flat
3)400 flat

also there is a 4 foot high concrete block foundation that will need to be painted as well (interior side), are any of these choices ok for the concrete block or is there another preferred paint for that?

the difference between paint cost from the least expensive to most expensive is only $50. any opinions on what to choose?

thanks for the advice
 
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Old 06-03-16, 04:00 AM
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I'm not familiar with the flat master. I've used a lot of the ProMar 200 and consider it to be one of the better builder grade paints. ProMar 400 isn't as good but does an ok job. I wouldn't use the ProMar 700!

Is the block currently painted? Unpainted block should be primed with blockfill which helps to fill the pores and prevents the finish paint from sucking in so far it almost disappears. If the other side of the block is below grade, drylok or similar should be used as the primer. Other than that, interior block can be painted with the same paint that can be used on drywall/plaster.

Do you intend to finish the drywall?
 
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Old 06-03-16, 04:35 AM
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I would highly recommend taping the drywall seams. It may only be cosmetic but I think it makes a big difference.
 
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Old 06-03-16, 06:53 AM
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To add to Norm's comment, if it's an attached garage I believe code requires the drywall seams be taped.

Can I ask why flat paint? I know it hides defects but it's also harder to keep clean. I'd be inclined to go with semi-gloss at least...
 
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Old 06-03-16, 10:54 AM
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IMO the level of finish needed for semi-gloss is too much to ask for in a garage, especially if it's a diy finish. I would recommend a satin or eggshell latex enamel as it won't attract dirt as easily as flat and is still washable.

Generally code calls for the common wall [s] and the ceiling to be taped but not the rest.
 
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Old 06-03-16, 04:27 PM
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the conc block foundation is above grade, is a primer necessary or will the 200 or 400 paint be good enough for it? i did some research with sherman williams and found the other products
loxon primer or loxon xp, might those be a better choice for the block?

also the Sheetrock is unpainted so if i choose either the 200 or 400 can that go right over the Sheetrock or is a primer necessary?

the garage is stand alone with no common residential walls

i did want to tape the drywall before painting but as its a small job and i cannot find anybody who is available to do the work. i am being honest with myself, i know if i wait and delay it will never get done.

all that being said its a garage (although a very nice one)
so i dont want to overthink it too much. i know the taping will look nicer but i hope painting it without the tape wont look too horrible and will serve the purpose of brightening.

thanks for the opinions
 

Last edited by diy409; 06-03-16 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 06-04-16, 04:39 AM
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The Loxon line is primarly for poured concrete, stucco and brick. Concrete/cinder block has more open pores which should be filled with block fill PrepRiteŽ Block Filler - Contractors - Sherwin-Williams Years ago I did work for one painting contractor that didn't use blockfill on the interior of garages and sprayed, rolled and sprayed the wall paint again on the block portion. It did turn the block white but IMO it didn't look right. I doubt 1 coat of ProMar on the block will look very good.

Bare drywall should be primed! While there are those that will apply wall paint directly to bare drywall the finish isn't apt to be washable and won't touch up well. There is a slight possibility that there could also be adhesion issues later on.

You might try stopping by a jobsite and asking the drywall finishers if any of them would be interested in a side job. While I was an employee I often did small side jobs. Painting unfinished drywall will brighten the garage up but would make someone like me roll my eyes when I saw it
 
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Old 06-04-16, 08:58 AM
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thanks for the advice marksr

its a garage so i dont want to go crazy and overthink it which i already am.
in the back of my mind i was also thinking that painting unfinished drywall will look cheap and half a**, you just confirmed my thought.

i was thinking to just paint the unfinished conc block for now
will the block filler be the best product, will that be stand alone or can you than cover with the 200 paint?

funny.. i called two sherwin williams stores and they never even mentioned the block filler paint option, they went right to the loxon?

thanks for the help
 
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Old 06-04-16, 09:01 AM
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... its a garage (although a very nice one)
409, have you ever seen something painted in flat white? My opinion is it's butt ugly.

So, I'd suggest a satin or eggshell in Navajo White, I hate white paint.

The Navajo will brighten it up nicely and won't look like an operating room.

My two cents.
 
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Old 06-04-16, 09:04 AM
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Block fill is ideal, not sure why SWP wouldn't mention it although I know when the Loxon first came out they made a big push to sell it. I don't know if blockfill comes in 1 gal buckets or not, I've always gotten the 5s. Drylok does come in single gallons. You can thin it a little [1 cup of water per gallon] since you don't need the water proofing properties. While neither block fill or drylok is intended to be used as the finish coat - many do so. The only real drawback is it will get dirty quicker and not clean as well as finish paint.


Baldwin, the first time I used navajo white I thought it was white [against dark painted stucco] IMO it would be too dark if used on the ceiling also although some of the other off whites will look ok on both walls and ceilings .... maybe antique white.
 
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Old 06-08-16, 12:45 AM
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thanks marksr

any advantage to promar vs preprite?
am i correct in understanding that promar is a combined finish coat as well?
also what would you estimate the coverage is gallons/SqFt

thanks
 
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Old 06-08-16, 05:12 AM
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The ProMar line covers interior paints; flat thru semi-gloss and drywall primers. The enamels can be had in both latex and alkyd [oil base] The ProMar primers are all latex.

Preprite covers a host of primers with blockfill being one of them. While some primers can overlap it's best to choose the primer that coincides with both the substrate being primed and the top coat to be applied over it. Blockfill or Drylok is always best for bare block.

Most paints/primers generally get 350-400 sq ft per gallon. Rough or porous substrates will take more paint [less sq ft per gal] The block fill over raw block will likely get 200 sq ft per gallon. The better the block is sealed the further the top coat will go.

am i correct in understanding that promar is a combined finish coat as well?
Not sure I understand that statement I'm not aware of SWP selling a primer in the paint coating although I've been retired for awhile so I'm not up on their current coating offerings. IMO primer in the paint is more marketing hype than anything else as repaints seldom need a primer. When primer is needed it's always best to use a dedicated primer tailored for the job at hand.
 
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Old 06-08-16, 07:02 AM
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thanks, please disregard my question on the combo, you have clarified all.

isn't the dryloc a non Sherwin Williams brand? do you have any preference on that over the block fill?
as i mentioned its a garage so if i chose to just coat the block with one coat of block-fill (possibly 2 ?) and call it a day would that be an acceptable quality finish/job.

thanks
 
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Old 06-08-16, 07:45 AM
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SWP sells Drylok even though they don't manufacture it. They also sell some of Zinnser's primers. Block fill is preferred over Drylok above grade, Drylok is needed below grade. IMO the only reason to use Drylok above grade is if you need less than 5 gallons - not sure if you can buy blockfill in single gallons.

Many will apply a coat of blockfill or drylok and call it good [interior only] It will get dirtier easier than finish paint but should look good for awhile [maybe years if it doesn't get much of abuse]
 
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