Smoothing out satin water based latex finish

So I built some cabinets and I am painting them white. I bought a paint sprayer from menards. The Wegner hvlp max. Was about $100 so I'm not expecting the smoothest finish in the world, I thinned the paint and primer and it still spit a little bit, leaving a slightly bumpy surface. I primed them sanded , primed and sanded them again and put 1 coat of latex white paint on them. I plan on sanding them and spraying them again. But is there a way to get it as smooth as possible while keeping the satin finish? Can I sand them after the second coat without losing the sheen somehow? I read a little on rubbing out (ha ha) but not sure if you can do something like that to latex paint? Or am I just s.o.l and just have to take what the sprayer gives me?

Or is it too late to switch paint types or something? Just want it smoother...

Thanks!

 

What size tip are you using? While I have a good bit of spraying experience I don't recall ever using a cheap/homeowner type airless. Spraying often gives a slightly higher sheen than a brush or roller but that has more to do with light refraction than the coating itself.

You can and should sand the latex enamel between coats. While many solvent based coatings can be buffed, I'm not aware of any latex coatings that can. I'm fairly certain that the issue is with the application, not sure if it's the airless or bad spraying technique.

 

Thanks Mark.

Here is the sprayer I got. I was just looking it over again, reading the reviews and this guy posted a long review explaining everything. Maybe I can try to get my hands on what he uses. I am fine with doing all the work and the time it takes, I just care about the result.

https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-051808...t&pageNumber=1

 

Cabinets can be sprayed with an airless but it does require a small tip, the lowest pressure setting that will work along with some spraying skill. I've never used a true HVLP [runs of a turbine] but do have a few HVLP type conversion guns that operate with an air compressor. While they work well with solvent based coatings I don't care much for them for spraying latex.

Just reread your first post and realized you don't have an airless but an HVLP. You might try thinning the paint some. Are you straining the paint before you put it in the cup.

 

Thanks for the quick response.

Yeah I strain it and thin it a little, but it is still spitting a bit. I read in the reviews again that latex should work. They sent a viscosity cup with the unit but the instructions just say look at the paint can. Then the paint can says not to thin, but I think I have to, quite a bit actually. I am fine with painting 3 or even 4 light coats, but wasn't sure what would happen if I ended up thinning it TOO much.

I must say though, I first used the primer without thinning and it spit like crazy, but I was okay with it because I would be sanding them pretty heavy between coats. And even the first coat, I was okay with a little spit because I will be sanding again, just worried about that last final coat.

I guess my game plan from here is just to thin it even more... I am just using water. I have floetrol, wasn't sure if you could mix that and water, but damn I wasn't aware I needed to be a scientist to get this finish. I have like 50 more doors and drawer fronts to build and paint after this. Am I better off investing in a better sprayer or doing something better when the time comes? These first set of cabinets I built perfectly and look amazing for my laundry room and was great practice for my laundry room. Need to be dialed in before I do the kitchen remodel though.

 

That made me laugh Basically it just takes practice. While the thinning recommendations on the label shouldn't be discarded lightly - a low pressure sprayer needs a thinner coating for it to atomize properly. The biggest issue when over thinning latex for spraying is it is more prone to run/sag. You can mix water and Floetrol together but I doubt the floetrol will help as it doesn't thin the paint as much as water will [means it might not spray any better] You still want to get at least the minimum mil thickness with the paint in order for it to wear properly which means more coats with extra thin paint.

 

If you have 50 more things to paint, I would be looking at a more expensive sprayer.

That said, are you sure the compressor is up to the job? Spraying paint takes a lot of air.

 

SS a true HVLP uses a turbine, I'd assume the one that he has is appropriately sized. I agree a more expensive unit should work better but the one he has may work ok.

 

Ah, thanks. Just looked up that model and it is indeed different than what I was thinking.

 

Thanks again guys.

I will try the thinner paint and maybe purchase a higher end model after this job is done.

Anything you recommend that is less hassle but can still shoot this type of latex? I have a ton of stuff to paint in this house. Everything is tan and basically needs to become white.

 

I only have a rudimentary knowledge of HVLP units. I own 2 airless pumps and multiple cup guns [use air compressor] Even so, I do very little spraying when it comes to finished or occupied houses. Spraying always produces overspray although an HVLP does produce the least. Generally the prep and clean up needed to spray an occupied house negates any time savings.

 

Okay. I understand. Yeah I am willing to try anything. Like I said, I am more concerned about the finish than anything else. I am a pretty bight dude so I am not concerned about a learning curve. I will see what happens after this next coat. Back to sanding... again....

 

You might want to practice on some scrap paneling, primed wood is better than raw for the practice runs.

 

Sounds good. I do spray some practice sprays on the plastic I have hanging, and it spits a little there, but I guess I am just "hoping" it will dry cleaner, but I guess not. Thanks for your help.

 

While sometimes paint will lay down a little better as it dries, the better it looks wet - the better it will look dry!

Plastic is fine for practice spraying although it might sag quicker since it can't really soak in.