painting high-density fiberboard?
#1
08-23-16, 01:57 PM
painting high-density fiberboard?
In my shop there is some shelving built, the shelf material being 1/8" thick high density fiberboard (HDF). It's rather stained up and ugly so was wanting to improve the appearance plus add a little protection to help with wipe-up cleanup a little. It's that pegboard material type board (minus the peg holes), and is apparently called high density fiberboard. I'm a little concerned about warpage if I was to prime and paint the shelves with regular latex like I've been considering. Any thoughts/tips would be appreciated on what might be a good approach/method to get these painted up decently without complications. I was googling a little but seems like most info mentions painting of MDF (different stuff) and not the HDF especially that like mine which is only 1/8" thick. thanks
#2
08-23-16, 02:24 PM
1/8" isn't thick enough for a shelf - is it a thicker shelf laminated with the HDF?
I'm not familiar with HDF but it sounds like it's similar [maybe the same] to masonite. It's usually best to oil prime it! The top coat can be latex, waterborne or oil base. Since it's a shop I'd suggest finishing with an oil base enamel as it will wear well and won't have objects stick to it like latex is prone to.
I'm not familiar with HDF but it sounds like it's similar [maybe the same] to masonite. It's usually best to oil prime it! The top coat can be latex, waterborne or oil base. Since it's a shop I'd suggest finishing with an oil base enamel as it will wear well and won't have objects stick to it like latex is prone to.
#3
08-23-16, 02:36 PM
1/8" isn't thick enough for a shelf - is it a thicker shelf laminated with the HDF?
#5
08-23-16, 03:22 PM
Naw it's just a little shelf for some lightweight stuff. It's fine for what its used for. Not gonna rip it down. Just wanted to inquire about the painting of it. And guess I'll go with oil primer/paint, per the advice, even though that's more trouble, takes longer to dry than latex would. Thanks
#6
08-23-16, 03:44 PM
If you want to use latex for a finish, you could use flat latex as it won't cause sticking .... but it will also mar easily. Waterborne enamels dry almost as hard as oil base enamels but they're kind of pricey 
#7
08-23-16, 04:11 PM
But would not the waterborne enamel possibly tend to cause warping of the thin material, as I'm thinking the latex possibly would?
#9
08-23-16, 04:38 PM
Ah, okay will go with some oil base primer I have on hand, and also I have some "acrylic interior latex enamel" paints, various colors of which to choose. Cool. Thanks marksr, I think I'm good to go.
#10
08-24-16, 03:14 AM
Flat latex paint won't have a sticking issue but your latex enamel might although maybe you'll be ok since the shelf is so light it won't have anything heavy setting on the latex enamel.
#11
08-24-16, 08:25 AM
Ok maybe not good to go, yet. Slightly confused now. Question time:
1, You said flat latex paint won't have a sticking issue but latex enamel might. Well then how about flat latex enamel?
2. I've been assuming since you mentioned it that a "waterborne" paint is the same as a water-based or latex paint. Apparently that is not the case, and a "waterborne" is some special and rather expensive paint formulation, different from regular water based paint (or latex)?
1, You said flat latex paint won't have a sticking issue but latex enamel might. Well then how about flat latex enamel?
2. I've been assuming since you mentioned it that a "waterborne" paint is the same as a water-based or latex paint. Apparently that is not the case, and a "waterborne" is some special and rather expensive paint formulation, different from regular water based paint (or latex)?
#12
08-24-16, 08:48 AM
Group Moderator
1. Yes, this could have sticking issues
2. Yes, this is different than latex enamel
If not using white paint, oil based enamel would also be a choice (not white since oil based paints can yellow a bit with age)
2. Yes, this is different than latex enamel
If not using white paint, oil based enamel would also be a choice (not white since oil based paints can yellow a bit with age)
I have plenty of oil based enamel. And not white.
#14
08-24-16, 10:07 AM
Latex enamel will stick to the primer but the 'sticking' I'm referring to [also called blocking] is where an object set on top of the latex enamel for an extended time will stick to the paint. The cheaper the latex enamel is the more apt it is to stick. It doesn't matter a whole lot what sheen the enamel is. This issues isn't associated with flat latex paint.
An over simplification of water borne paints is it's a cross between latex and oil base.
IMO oil base white would be ok in this situation - who cares if the paint yellows on workshop shelves
An over simplification of water borne paints is it's a cross between latex and oil base.
IMO oil base white would be ok in this situation - who cares if the paint yellows on workshop shelves
#16
08-24-16, 10:47 AM
I have a whole gallon of old leftover oil base sort of beige color paint. Pittsburgh "chevron off-white industrial enamel". Probably overkill for my measly shelf but might as well use it.
#20
08-24-16, 01:20 PM
Good to hear. Industrial grade long wearing paint job for my rinky dink shelf. This'll be awesome. 
I have several areas that have been patched with matching patterns.
(1) How long should I wait for the fresh stucco to cure before I should primt and paint over it? 1 week? or 28 days like "standard" concrete?
(2) Due to the texture, it is going to be difficult to cover the grooves even with a thick nap roller. I am thinking I need to roll on liberally, then a brush to make sure I have total coverage?
(3) Would it be better to tint the primer to the finished color to get better results?
(4) There is a lot of hype at local home centers on 1 coat prime and paint products. Thoughts? I am going to do multiple coats, was thinking 1 coat of prime plus 2 coats of paint, but would two coats of prime&paint be worse, same, better?