Help - Latex painted countertop
#1
10-19-16, 04:28 AM
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Help - Latex painted countertop
Ok, so I worked on a friends countertop 2 weeks ago. We allowed the sherwin williams super paint (latex) to dry fo 3 full days and a week later they started to utilize the counters again...they put a crock pot on the counter and the paint came off. Aside from completely starting over...can i add a protective barrier on top of the paint i spent 5 hours doing? Thanks in advance. Ive called home depot, lowes and sherwin williams. I wonder if there is an easy fix.
#2
10-19-16, 04:32 AM
Welcome to the forums!
What type of countertop? wood? laminate? If painted previously, what type of paint? what prep?
Generally it isn't a good idea to paint kitchen countertops. It's never a good idea to paint a laminate top!
What type of countertop? wood? laminate? If painted previously, what type of paint? what prep?
Generally it isn't a good idea to paint kitchen countertops. It's never a good idea to paint a laminate top!
#3
10-19-16, 05:16 AM
Group Moderator
Scratches are what you'd expect though they can happen easier than you'd think. You really have to get in the habit of not sliding anything on the counter and be careful when setting sharp things like knives down. Putting a hot pot, operating crock pot or waffle iron on them can kill them in one use. It may not be scalding heat but it can be enough to warm the paint and laminate underneath causing the paint to lift or to discolor it. After all heat is one trick often used to remove paint.
With proper prep work and treating the counter with tender loving care I've seen painted counters look OK for up to a year. Two years seems to be the limit even with extreme care to not scratch or mar them. I would not consider a painted counter a permanent anything. I think it's appropriate if you are just trying to buy some time while you save up money for a replacement.
With proper prep work and treating the counter with tender loving care I've seen painted counters look OK for up to a year. Two years seems to be the limit even with extreme care to not scratch or mar them. I would not consider a painted counter a permanent anything. I think it's appropriate if you are just trying to buy some time while you save up money for a replacement.
#4
10-19-16, 05:21 AM
Group Moderator
There are countertop epoxies that some people use when they want to do it on the cheap, but paint is a bad idea.
I have about eight such windows and doors to paint.
Since the dark brown color is the finished coat, I asked BM to tint the primer. They tinted it a light gray color and said it's the best they can do...so now I can't easily tell the difference between raw concrete and the primer :( . Is it true they cannot tint the primer anywhere close to the finished color?
First, I started with using a roller with 3/4" nap. That did not work too well and the primer did not get into the grooves. Even when I used a paint brush to brush the primer into the grooves it was a hit and miss.
Then I switched to the thickest 1-1/4" nap and that worked better, but still about 30% of the grooves were not primed.
[IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/IMAG7635.jpg[/IMG]
As you can see, there are many grooves I can't get to - with the thick roller or with brush. If I push real hard on the roller, I can get more grooves primed, but it seems I end up getting lint from the roller.
Here are a few pictures of the primed wall, after I did the rolling, and after I hand brushed as best as I could. Still I can't get 100% coverage.
[IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/IMAG7638.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/IMAG7639.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/closeup2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/courtyard/lint.jpg[/IMG]
After I finished off the entire gallon of the Aqua Lock primer, I did a quick measurement and it covered only about 65 SQ FT.
My specific questions are:
(1) Is it possible to tint the primer closer to the dark brown finished color instead of "concrete gray"?
(2) The Aqua Lock primer seems very thick and viscous. Will using a different primer (something less thick) make it easier to prime and paint the grooves?
(3) Is there some special roller or brush I can use to obtain better results? Today it took me five hours to prime a mere 65 SF used up all one gallon and I still wasn't able to cover all the grooves. There has to be a better way...This house has over 450 linear feet of exterior wall with this texture painted and I am only patching about 40 linear feet of it and I am hitting my head against the wall.