Bathroom cabinet sticky after painting

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Old 05-28-17, 03:16 PM
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Question Bathroom cabinet sticky after painting

I went to Lowe's, picked out a color and told the paint specialist that I wanted Sherwin Williams special paint for kitchen cabinets. I went along with his recommendation of Olympic One Paint/Primer (photo).

I used stain remover to remove previous stains and then sanded clean. The paint went on well, though the oak wood grain showed. I put on 3 to 4 coats, and if looked closely, I can still see the grain. But overall, I like the result.

The paint has dried over 24 hours, and I just put the doors back on. But the problem I noticed is that the door will stick to the cabinet after 5 minutes or so. For now, I left the doors open.

Will the paint require longer period to dry? Will the stickiness stop? Did I used wrong type of paint?

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Old 05-28-17, 04:52 PM
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I went to Lowe's, picked out a color and told the paint specialist
Unfortunately the two statements, Lowes and Paint specialist simply do not go together.

Paint is something where you get exactly what you pay for and the big box stores are there to sell the cheapest krap that anybody makes.

Right now you are just going to have to wait and see if with time the paint will dry sufficiently.

A suggestion, some felt pads will at least help separate the painted surfaces.
 
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Old 05-28-17, 05:13 PM
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Your paint "says" it is an enamel, and from its product description, it says that it can be used on a wide variety of surfaces... walls and cabinets, in addition to an endless list of other surfaces. (They forgot to include corn cobs and dog turds. LOL!) What I gather from that is that it is not SPECIFICALLY for trim, and as such, will not perform as well. What you are noticing is called blocking... the tendency for paint to be sticky, or stick one painted surface to another (such as where painted doors touch a painted frame) and your paint may or may not get harder as it cures. Its a thick paint and will likely take many days to fully cure.

Latex paints are more sticky than their oil counterparts, and where that is an issue (trim, cabinets doors) you would be ahead of the game if you had bought a quality paint that is specifically for trim from a real paint store. High gloss paints will often develop a harder finish, whereas other sheens (like semi-gloss) are usually inherently softer.

I would never use "wall paint" on trim. They are two different animals, imo.
 
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Old 05-29-17, 03:09 AM
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As far as I know I've never used that particular paint but as X stated there is a big difference between trim enamel and wall enamel. Another issues is the number of coats along with the time allowed to dry/cure. Just because paint is dry to the touch doesn't mean it's cured. Multiple coats applied in short order slow down the curing process.

Did you use a dedicated primer? The primer in the paint is pretty much a misnomer and shouldn't be relied on for a primer over any solvent based finish like the original cabinet finish.
 
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Old 05-29-17, 08:25 AM
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The problem is that I knew less about paint than Lowe's paint rep and ended up taking his advice. I still got 7/8 gallon remaining, which I will put it aside for something else, and look for better paint for my kitchen project.

This time, I will use separate primer. I googled and found Sherwin Williams paint store. Gonna swing by there this afternoon and see about getting trim enamel paint.

Thanks...
 

Last edited by itchibahn; 05-29-17 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 05-29-17, 09:13 AM
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If you've already put on 3 or 4 coats, one more coat of a quality paint probably isn't going to magically make all 5 coats hard, because each of the previous coats is not hard, but rubbery. If it looks good, put your felt pads on the corners of doors and drawers and give your multiple coats time to cure... possibly as long as a month.

(See http://buyat.ppg.com/rep_pafpainttools_files/Olympic/TDB/75601.pdf ) - 4 hrs to recoat, 30 days to full cure, depending on conditions and thickness of the coats applied.

It's also too late to primer, unless you have new cabinets that you haven't even started on, priming now is pointless. If the cabinets were stained and varnished (or lacquered or polyurethaned) you should have used an oil primer first for adhesion.

One of the biggest DIY problems is impatience... there ought to be a sticky about it in every forum.
 
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Old 05-29-17, 10:55 AM
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I was testing with small bathroom cabinets. My main project is the kitchen cabinets, which I have not started. I'm currently looking at Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel priced at $87/gal on sale for $61/gal.
 
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Old 05-29-17, 01:38 PM
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I'm not familiar with the Emerald Urethane enamel but really like their ProClassic waterborne enamel.
You might find this helpful - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/pa...t-repaint.html
 
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Old 05-29-17, 02:06 PM
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The Emerald trim enamel is new this year, it's their top of the line (most expensive) paint.
 
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Old 05-29-17, 05:01 PM
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Just to add a little, Oak is an open pore wood. If you don't want to see the grain the wood needs sealed first, not just primed. To me I don't mind the look of the grain showing.

You might want to look at Rustoleum Transformations cabinet painting kit. I've seen cabinets painted with the kit (by amateurs) and was impressed with the finish.
 
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Old 05-29-17, 06:23 PM
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"Filled" might be a better word to describe using wood grain filler to fill and seal the oak pores, covering them up.
 
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Old 05-29-17, 09:45 PM
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"Filled" might be a better word
Agreed, filled is a better word. A popular wood filler is Jasco paste wood filler.
To me though the filler is advanced and not needed for painting cabinets. Although you will get great results, the paste is usually only applied when doing a piano finish or a French rub, something you want a mirror finish on.
 
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Old 05-30-17, 04:50 AM
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While I've always used a filler when painting over raw oak, open grain usually isn't an issue when painting cabinets that already have a finish. Between the primer coat and 2 coats of finish, sanding between coats - any open grain is normally not noticeable.
 
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Old 06-21-17, 10:13 PM
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I bought a can of Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel, and applied on top of existing paint, and the grain is almost unnoticeable. If I look from angle, I can barely see it. Not sure if this paint was that good, or several coats of paint did the trick. I'm satisfied with the result. Thanks everyone.
 
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