Benjamin Moore paint choices
#1
06-03-17, 09:25 AM
Benjamin Moore paint choices
Getting ready to paint condo. Have always used Benjamin Moore, was thinking of it again, unless DIYers have a different suggestion. Here are my other questions:
1. Ready-mix color v. factory tint? I've have heard mixed reports on accuracy of factory tint colors.
2. Thinking of Regal Select for walls - what finish? Walls show old roller marks.
3. Thinking of Aura for bathroom - again, what finish?
4. Thinking of Advance for trim and moldings - what finish?
Many thanks for guidance.
1. Ready-mix color v. factory tint? I've have heard mixed reports on accuracy of factory tint colors.
2. Thinking of Regal Select for walls - what finish? Walls show old roller marks.
3. Thinking of Aura for bathroom - again, what finish?
4. Thinking of Advance for trim and moldings - what finish?
Many thanks for guidance.
#2
06-03-17, 09:31 AM
I don't often use BM coatings so I can comment too much on them [other than most of them being good]
I've never heard of stock colors being off, even custom tints are usually spot on with today's computerized mixing.
Flat and satin [or eggshell] are the most commonly used sheens for walls. The more sheen there is the more apt defects in the wall will show. Generally a light sanding along with a heavy coat of paint will hide roller marks.
Satin or semi-gloss for baths with showers [including ceiling] A bath paint is preferred because it has more mildewcide and is formulated for the harsher environment.
What sheen to use on woodwork depends on your personal tastes although most will go with one or two degree higher of sheen than the walls.
I've never heard of stock colors being off, even custom tints are usually spot on with today's computerized mixing.
Flat and satin [or eggshell] are the most commonly used sheens for walls. The more sheen there is the more apt defects in the wall will show. Generally a light sanding along with a heavy coat of paint will hide roller marks.
Satin or semi-gloss for baths with showers [including ceiling] A bath paint is preferred because it has more mildewcide and is formulated for the harsher environment.
What sheen to use on woodwork depends on your personal tastes although most will go with one or two degree higher of sheen than the walls.
#3
06-03-17, 09:58 AM
Thanks Marksr.
What are your preferred coatings?
Custom tint colors are what I was concerned about (factory tint was wrong term). Reassuring that they can be accurate these days - heard some unfortunate stories.
The product that was recommended for the trim is an alkyd paint - sounds like a good idea, do you agree?
Thanks.
What are your preferred coatings?
Custom tint colors are what I was concerned about (factory tint was wrong term). Reassuring that they can be accurate these days - heard some unfortunate stories.
The product that was recommended for the trim is an alkyd paint - sounds like a good idea, do you agree?
Thanks.
#4
06-03-17, 12:53 PM
In the last 25 yrs or so I've mostly used SWP, mainly because of the location and hours of their stores. Nothing wrong with using BM - I'm just not all that familiar with their coating line up.
Years ago when they mechanically added the tint there could be variations between stores and sometimes at a store if they didn't calibrate the tint machine often enough. It's been 20-30 yrs [maybe more] since custom tints had any issues [not including some of the small independent stores, not sure about big box paint depts]
Alkyd or oil base enamel dries to the hardest film and generally wears the best but it does have a stronger odor and longer set up time. Oil base whites will yellow over time. A lot depends on what is currently on the woodwork. If you have oil base now, you either need to stick with oil base or apply a solvent based primer to bridge the gap between oil enamel and latex. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/pa...latex-oil.html
Years ago when they mechanically added the tint there could be variations between stores and sometimes at a store if they didn't calibrate the tint machine often enough. It's been 20-30 yrs [maybe more] since custom tints had any issues [not including some of the small independent stores, not sure about big box paint depts]
Alkyd or oil base enamel dries to the hardest film and generally wears the best but it does have a stronger odor and longer set up time. Oil base whites will yellow over time. A lot depends on what is currently on the woodwork. If you have oil base now, you either need to stick with oil base or apply a solvent based primer to bridge the gap between oil enamel and latex. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/pa...latex-oil.html
#5
06-05-17, 02:07 PM
Member
I used BM Advance for my cabinets and trim, in my kitchen. Now working on trim in dining room. It's a very slow-drying paint, 16 hours dry time before you can sand and do a 2nd coat. So keep that in mind. It IS a "drippy" paint, so thin coats are really important, but the fact that it is so slow drying helps with correcting drips. I have to say that it is wonderfully self-leveling, so for cabinets, it's just beautiful. I chose a satin sheen, as the BM satin is darn near other's paints semi-gloss in shine. There is no difference in the washability between the sheens, at least in the BM paint.
