Advice on Mahogany Front door stain/sealer
#1
09-19-22, 10:01 AM
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Advice on Mahogany Front door stain/sealer
Our house is 1 y/o. Builder used an Interior stain on the exterior of door and the same name brand spar urethane. Door stain bleached out and urethane bubbled and bled. Door mfg. replaced door @ 8 mo. We have to re-stain the door, a professional I am not, nor does anyone in our area want a small job. All big box store stains have sealer in them, and they all say deck stain. I want to use oil base stain, but one stain company 800 # tech said, "do not seal our stain". Who wants a dull matte door, (?) it should look like a piece of furniture when finished (to my woman's eye, anyway). If I use a stain with sealer, can I use a varnish, urethane or tung oil to gloss it and seal it, or will it counteract with the sealer in the stain and cause another mess? I am so confused what to do. Thank you.
#2
09-19-22, 01:43 PM
Welcome to the forums!
You don't use a deck stain on a door .... or at least shouldn't. You use a regular penetrating stain, wiping off the excess, then 3 coats of spar urethane, sanding lightly between coats. I've always used an interior stain on exterior wood doors [minwax or similar] but you shouldn't use an interior poly - it needs to be spar.
You don't use a deck stain on a door .... or at least shouldn't. You use a regular penetrating stain, wiping off the excess, then 3 coats of spar urethane, sanding lightly between coats. I've always used an interior stain on exterior wood doors [minwax or similar] but you shouldn't use an interior poly - it needs to be spar.
#3
09-19-22, 01:50 PM
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Another option that might be more maintenence friendly would be a product like Minwax tung oil finish. It will not be glossy, but the glossy finish is going to be a maintenance problem if it's exposed to the elements. A tung oil finish can just be re oiled as needed.
#4
09-24-22, 09:37 AM
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Thank you for your replies, Marksr and XSleeper. So I should not use Cabot oil base stain with it's own sealer for the door and an exterior spar urethane over it (I am assuming those pints and quarts that you choose color and have mixed are the deck stain)? I should use an interior stain like the builder did (along with the same exterior Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane)? The door was failing by 5-6 months and replaced at 8, so the thought of interior stain again concerns me. The door is 6 pane, and the lower 1/3 of the door gets about 6-7 hrs daily sun, but no rain as it is under a portico porch approx, 8' deep.The portico is open on 3 sides so the sun is always there.
#5
09-24-22, 11:35 AM
I've stained 100s of exterior wood doors over the yrs. The more sun/rain they see the sooner the urethane will fail but when you catch it soon enough a light sanding and fresh coat of spar poly is all that is needed. I would think in your scenario the finish would last a few yrs or more. I don't recall the finish on any door failing in less than one yr.
2john02458
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#6
09-24-22, 02:52 PM
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Photos of door stain and ext. spar urethane on mahogany door
crack and discoloration
dark red area under exterior spar urethane on M. Golden Oak Mahogany door
Dark bubbles under the spar urethane
faded
#7
09-24-22, 04:12 PM
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Do you think it being stained and spar urethane sealed in the same day 8:30-5:00 by builders stainer was he problem?
#9
09-25-22, 03:33 AM
I almost always apply the stain and first coat of urethane [oil base] the same day. Been doing it that way for close to 50 yrs with no issues. The 2nd and 3rd coat of spar poly need 24 hrs between coats.
Do you know if the spar poly they used was oil base or water based? I have limited experience with the latter.
Do you know if the spar poly they used was oil base or water based? I have limited experience with the latter.
#10
09-25-22, 04:54 AM
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It's a bit unusual that these spots are only at the ends of the rails at the bottom and middle of the door only... in at those least 4 spots pictured. That would lead me to believe either the stain or the finish was not completely cured in these areas where may have been overlap.
This is especially a problem with minwax stains that have been finished too soon, and especially if the door (or trim) is hit by the sun in the late afternoon after the first coat of finish is dry. If the stain has not completely dried it affects adhesion.
This is especially a problem with minwax stains that have been finished too soon, and especially if the door (or trim) is hit by the sun in the late afternoon after the first coat of finish is dry. If the stain has not completely dried it affects adhesion.
#11
09-25-22, 10:08 AM
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marksr- Yes it was Helmsman Exterior oil base spar urethane over Minwax interior stain. That is why I am concerned about having the same kind done again.
XSleeper + marksr, so you think it will be ok to use an interior oil base and exterior oil spar again as long as we let it cure between coats? Or should we go with the Cabot with sealer included and then a spar urethane. WE do not want to mess up like the builders stainer did. We are older and want to make sure we do it correctly as we have no experience in wood finishing. Thank you both for your answers.
XSleeper + marksr, so you think it will be ok to use an interior oil base and exterior oil spar again as long as we let it cure between coats? Or should we go with the Cabot with sealer included and then a spar urethane. WE do not want to mess up like the builders stainer did. We are older and want to make sure we do it correctly as we have no experience in wood finishing. Thank you both for your answers.
#12
09-25-22, 10:17 AM
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Also-we my husband sanded the sidelights, but of course they still have some color to them, but the door is raw. Do we need to use a wood conditioner before staining it? Thanks so much.
#14
09-26-22, 02:48 AM
I probably use Minwax and Helmsman about half the time, whatever the paint store sells the other half.
I wouldn't think a wood conditioner would be needed, it's mainly for soft woods like pine that have both porous and non porous spots in the wood. Wood conditioner slightly seals the wood so the stain will be absorbed more evenly - it does slow down the stain's drying time and results in a lighter color.
I would not use a deck/siding stain or a tinted poly!
I wouldn't think a wood conditioner would be needed, it's mainly for soft woods like pine that have both porous and non porous spots in the wood. Wood conditioner slightly seals the wood so the stain will be absorbed more evenly - it does slow down the stain's drying time and results in a lighter color.
I would not use a deck/siding stain or a tinted poly!
