It's going to be a big mess either way, especially if you (or contractor) will be using water to soften the popcorn for removal. Leaving it down has the advantage that you can just roll it up with the mess inside and get rid of it that way. But if water will be used, the carpet will allow the water to seep through and possibly damage the subfloor. In that case I'd probably remove the carpet and put down plastic first and cover that with cloth drop cloths.
If it was me, I'd remove it first. A lot easier to move a ladder around and sweep than trying to slide things across a carpet. Besides removing after the ceiling will throw up dust and why would you want that after a nice new painted ceiling?
Contractors may be using those those new machines that's sort of sand and suck in the dust.
also, after the carpet is removed I will be laying hardwood floors also I am putting recessed lighting in im confused if I should do that first before the popcorn ceiling or after I feel like afterwards will they have a hard time painting but then if they need to make holes anywhere for the wiring they're doing that on a freshly painted ceiling so I'm not sure which to do for that either
IMO it's best to install the lights after the popcorn is removed and before the ceiling is painted.
I'd remove the carpet first, I'm not convinced it will add much time to the cleanup. While water is coming used to aid in the popcorn removal it's not like you have a water hose in there and pump up garden spray can direct most of the water to the ceiling where it gets absorbed by the texture. I'd rather work over a floor I can sweep than carpet that has wet texture all over it.
No water is being used ! It's a machine that sands and vacuums it
Problem is the people that are remove the popcorn celing are the ones that are painting it
I've never seen a machine like that used for popcorn ceilings ..... but if it works. It shouldn't make much of mess.
Can't the painters be scheduled to remove the texture one day and then come back after the electrician is done? I've done so on more than one occasion.
The can lights I'm familiar with have a ring that can hang down, it's easiest to leave the trim ring hanging, paint and then push them up once the paint as dried.
Our house is 1 y/o. Builder used an Interior stain on the exterior of door and the same name brand spar urethane. Door stain bleached out and urethane bubbled and bled. Door mfg. replaced door @ 8 mo. We have to re-stain the door, a professional I am not, nor does anyone in our area want a small job. All big box store stains have sealer in them, and they all say deck stain. I want to use oil base stain, but one stain company 800 # tech said, "do not seal our stain". Who wants a dull matte door, (?) it should look like a piece of furniture when finished (to my woman's eye, anyway). If I use a stain with sealer, can I use a varnish, urethane or tung oil to gloss it and seal it, or will it counteract with the sealer in the stain and cause another mess? I am so confused what to do. Thank you.
This cedar siding has never been stained, we have cleaned it and are looking a semi-transparent oil stains…. would appreciate some opinions on colors. Everything that is green is staying green - thanks!
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09-29-22, 07:15 AM
