The treads and risers are all oil base stained, and as you can see in the riser's image, they match the floors on the main level. So, now it's time to coat with a satin finish. Being old school, I've always felt oil/oil is best, but what do I know ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
The stairs go down to the basement so they are not subject to heavy traffic besides dogs. I usually use a Polyurethane, so interested in opinions about alternatives or specifics while using the best.
I'm old school; and still think oil base is the best although waterborne finishes have come a long ways.
You'll find the better finishes at your local flooring store as opposed to a big box or paint store. I've gotten decent results using Minwax oil base poly. The main reason I've used it is the fact that I didn't have to go out of my way to purchase it.
In the future if you stain/poly the hardwood before installation it will be quicker/easier plus you'd only tie up the stairway for one drying cycle.
I used Minwax oil based poly on our wood stairs and it has done VERY well. They hardly show any wear. Note: there are only two adults and two cats with claws in our household so your mileage may vary.
If I recall correctly I put on 4 or 5 coats using a foam roller back brushing each coat.
I generally stain [or not] and then apply 2 coats of poly sanding between coats before the carpenter installs them. I then putty the nail holes, sand and remove the sanding dust before applying the final coat of poly. I usually spray the first 2 coats and brush the final coat.
Hi. We recently discovered our old house has some lead paint on the trim in several rooms. Most of the areas of the trim are never disturbed, and are covered in several layers of paint. But - there are some friction spots on doors and door jambs thar are concerning and need to be covered ASAP (see photos).
I understand the risks of disturbing flaking lead paint, and also understand that encapsulation is a good method for keeping lead paint safely contained. We can’t afford to hire a fancy painter, or have the doors chemically stripped. So I plan on following the advice laid out by the EPA for DIY lead safe practices…
[url]https://www.epa.gov/lead/lead-safe-renovations-diyers[/url]
My specific question involves the method of encapsulation…
It seems odd to cover these friction spots on doors and jambs with super thick encapsulation primer followed by coats of regular paint. Seeing that it will make the doors difficult to open and close, and will probably end up creating even more friction. My plan was to use coats of decent primer and coats of paint, and keep the doorway paint in good shape. Does this seem like a good enough strategy to keep the lead dust in check? Couldn’t be worse than having these little spots exposed. Any advice you guys have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_0450_618094d32d576d24c072af4c96831444281e9e06.jpeg[/img]
[img]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_0452_c72c2acb775feebdb7b30e82554e59f9437bd60a.jpeg[/img]Read More
I have a question about how paint is duplicated at a big box store. I don't mean taking a color from the wall and having it matched by scanning, I know that can vary. I mean once you obtained a pint size sample and it works, now you take that pint sized sample back where they have a computer produced sticker with bar codes and numbers, to give you a gallon size duplicate. That should be an exact match right?
Two years ago, I wanted to paint over some areas of an exterior wall after we did some renovations. The wall is masonry (stucco). I took a piece of the broken stucco over to Home Depot to have it matched. They sold these pint size samples and I went back to try it, took two tries but the latest match worked. So I went back to get a quart size exterior paint with the pint size sample. Supposedly the sticker has the proper mixing formulation. I used up the entire quart and threw the can away, but I have the pint size sample with the sticker which I assume I can use to get more of the same, in quart size or gallon size or whatever.
So this is the sticker on the sample. It says:
GLIDDEN
BASE= GLU9012N
CLRNT BL CL DL KXL
OZ 0 0 0 0
384th 34 186 14 6
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/pXWqS7x2/IMG-20230726-165448.jpg[/img]
I have no clue what these numbers mean, but I assume these numbers is crucial in getting the same exact paint. I gave this sample to the paint department staff, and said I need a one gallon exterior flat, and he mixed for me a full gallon paint that should be the same.
However, I took the paint home and tried the new full gallon paint and it looks different. It has a yellower tint to it. So I said, OK, it is possible that over the last two years, the paint on the wall has faded, so it's no longer the same. So I went back to the pint size sample, and used the left over paint there, and that sample matches perfectly. The new gallon size does not.
This is the sticker on the gallon size paint can. The numbers are different, but may be they are different because it needs different numbers for gallon size vs pint size? The base numbers are not the same either.
GLIDDEN
BASE= GL6112
CLRNT BL CL DL KXL
OZ 1 4 0 6
384th 4 336 56 172
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/Wp65XVBW/IMG-20230726-165501.jpg[/img]
Does anyone know what these numbers mean? Are they the same color or not? Is the gallon size color formulation the same as the pint size?Read More
07-29-23, 10:04 PM
