Baseboard ?
#1
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Baseboard ?
I am looking to touch up the house I am currently staying in. The baseboards bother me, a lot of them are not flush with the wall. ( pictures attached ). I was wondering what is the best way to go about fixing this.
#2
Are the boards straight and the walls bowed or vice versa? If it's the boards, you might be able to nail or trim screw them flat. If it's the walls, there might not be much you can do. That looks awfully big to caulk, and then you'd have to re-paint that gawdawful pink. Probably tough to match, so now you'd have to do a whole wall or more...ehhhh, is it worth it?
You might be able to put a cap on to lessen the look of the gap, but you'd still be doing painting.
You might be able to put a cap on to lessen the look of the gap, but you'd still be doing painting.
#4
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Baseboard
Baseboard is probably nailed too low. The bevel on the bottom edge of the drywall will allow the bottom edge of the baseboard to pull in when nailed. This causes a gap between the wall and the top edge of the baseboard.
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I am looking to touch up the house I am currently staying in
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In your pics the trim looks straight and the walls look bowed, leading me to believe its probably plaster and lath. The trim is big, and appears to be a full 3/4 thick. Nails may not be enough to pull that trim flush with the wall. Try pre-drilling in the middle of the worst gap you have with a bit smaller than a #8 or even #10 finish nail, use a set, and see if you can get it to move back. With the height of that board i would use at least 2, maybe even 3 on that first stud.
If the nails wont pull the board flush, get some star-bit type deck screws and an impact driver, pre-drill a countersink for the heads (just touch the surface with the countersink) and see if the impact driver will pull it back.
If that does not move the wood, you will have to cap the base with trim, but be warned that the edge (bottom edge of trim where it rests on the base) will vary where it has to dip in to follow the contour of the wall. You will have to at least putty the nails, but if you have to use screws, wood filler over the heads would be your best option, but be prepared to do two coats to account for shrinkage, and the trim will have to be repainted.
If the nails wont pull the board flush, get some star-bit type deck screws and an impact driver, pre-drill a countersink for the heads (just touch the surface with the countersink) and see if the impact driver will pull it back.
If that does not move the wood, you will have to cap the base with trim, but be warned that the edge (bottom edge of trim where it rests on the base) will vary where it has to dip in to follow the contour of the wall. You will have to at least putty the nails, but if you have to use screws, wood filler over the heads would be your best option, but be prepared to do two coats to account for shrinkage, and the trim will have to be repainted.