Baseboard and interior bullnose corner

I am thinking about how to replace some 2.5" baseboard with taller baseboard in a room with a couple of 135 degree interior bullnose corners. Hopefully you can see what I mean from the below picture. Do I round of the point where the boards join or do I remove some of the mud that expect was trowled into the corner to achieve the bullnose effect.



I think I should neatly dig out some of the mud cutting flush with the top of the board with a sharp utility knife.

 

Welcome to the forums!
I'd modify the base to fit the wall. I used to paint behind a carpenter that would chisel out the wall to make his base fit. IMO once the base was installed and the wall repaired it didn't look all that great.

 

It takes 3 pieces to go around a bull nose corner. And depending on the angle you have to experiment with how wide the corner piece needs to be. It might be an inch or so. You don't dig out any drywall... unless they left a big blob of mud at the bottom. The top of your base might have a very small gap but it is small enough to caulk and paint.

 

Thanks again XSleeper and marksr. I am really glad I asked about digging out the drywall before doing it. I will forget that. I am familiar with doing outside bullnose using a small third piece but wondered about how that would work for interior corner; especially since this is 135° inside corner.

 

Should be 4 cuts, each around 11.75 degrees. You can recess into the drywall a little bit but your limited by how big of a flat spot you have on top of your base. Recessing more than half of it looks bad and makes it harder to caulk.

 

Cool. I have been experimenting with the setting and figured that if for a 135 I cut the pieces to be joined at 22.5, which my DeWalt has detent for, that for a 3 piece corner it would be about half that, but experimenting I get turned all around. I came up with 15degrees but it isn't right and I will go back and try the 11.75. Another question about nailing.

I am ready to nail and am wondering if it is wise to use my 15 gauge nailer. I tested it on scrap with 2.5 inch nails and the very narrow pieces spit half the time, but it did fine if I was in the middle of a 4" wide piece of 6" tall fingerjoint pine. Still, if just one piece of ready to nail painted and cut splits . . . Think I should get an inexpesive brad gun?

I am just getting ready to order 160 feet more of this same stuff and that is just enough if I don't do the upstairs. After this is done I will likely never use it again. Is Harbor Freight a bad idea for this one job? Thanks again.

BTW, it is looking good and I am having so much fun I even cancelled my weekly skeet game.

 

I wouldn't try to nail the corner piece... it completely captured between the other 2 pieces. Just use wood glue on your miters. Brad nails are good for thin base, and if the base is thick, a 2" Brad nail works fine. Smaller nails are probably better.

 

Yeah. Just the question about possible split was pregnant with the answer. I will get a brad gun. For a few pieces I would predrill and set nails with, but not 160 linear.

As for the odd miter cut, it wasn't quite perfect, but you weren't wrong. that corner isn't 135 but 136 degrees. I tweaked your setting by about half a degree and it is nice and tight.

This is a lot of work, but I find it gun, even though it won't be so fun after a week of cutting and painting. Here in Orange County, CA I would probably pay $8 a foot installed with material and painting. Since that is after tax I am saving a tidy sum since I don't miss work. Retired.

 

So I picked up a Hitachi brad gun at a big box store. No way I am risking splitting those boards after all the work and help you folks gave me. Of course I delayed ordering the second piece until I was sure I liked this stuff, and now it won't be in until Monday due to the holiday. Speaking of which Happy Fourth of July to you guys, and that also goes for the Canadians among you.

 

Anytime you try to nail a small piece (even with a Brad nailer) it is likely to split. Especially when there is a void behind the piece.

 

Thanks for the tip. I probably knew that, but knowing and doing are two different things for moi. I won't use it even for the bullnose corner pieces. I did a bunch of practice with some scrap studs and short pieces of the base and while it is easy fairly easy to split the bb with a 15, you have to try to split it with the 18. I will just glue those little bullnose pieces. The one i tried for practice was glue up with some regular old Elmers that has been sitting on a shelf for who knows how long. After it dried there was no getting it off. Still I picked up some Titebond III.