The rear brakes of my Camry need a replacement every 30-40K miles. I understand that is a problem with some of the 2007 Camry.

The question is, during every brake pad replacement, the repair shop also ask to replace rotor. In old days, they used to machine the rotor and replace only the pad.

Question -
1) What is the standard thickness of a new rotor now a days ?

2) What should be the minimum thickness remaining to machine a rotor ?

 

Dimensions vary by make/model. Chances of having one worn beyond specs for resurfacing are slim to none. The front rotors on my wrecker are only the second ones ever on the truck and I'm pushing 700K miles. Have never turned them either, I just install new pads. Having said that, I'm less likely to notice any imperfections in the wear of my rotors than you would on a passenger car. Aftermarket rotors are so cheap nowadays that many shops just replace them like they were a consumable item. They're likely to charge you about as much to machine them as to replace them. Just had wifey's '09 Camry in for dashboard recall Monday and while in they checked car over (looking for somewhere to make some money) and said her rear pads were getting close. I'll check them when I get time and if needing replacement I'll put new pads on and let it go at that.

 

Thanks much. Here in New England area, most shops charge at least double to replace rotors compared to pads + resurface. Easy money, I guess

 

I can buy those rotors all day long for less than $50 apiece.

 

Why did you decide that this is common for Camrys? I have 07 Camry with 120 000 miles and suffer none of this commonality.
be smart customer, shop around. Most part stores will resurface rotors. Les Schwab, so commong in the coutry, has about the best price.
Rotor thickness is stamped on the rotor edge Says MIN....... dots filled with some numbers. Of course, that will require you to remove rotors DIY and now here is something common for 07 Camry - rear rotors are total PITA to remove.
I say you have the usual issue with disk brakes - non lubricated guide pins. This is commonly neglected maintenance area, resulting in very fast and uneven pads wear, front or rear. Lubricate pins every year and be happy.
80% braking is done by front end anyway, so you absolutely need to treat the cause, not the symptoms of that issue.

 

Good question from Igor. My wife's '09 has about 65k miles and still on (AFAIK) original pads.

 

I've always thought that the majority of braking was done by the front but on my 2010 jeep the back pads wore out at 55k and the front still have a good bit of meat on them

Like some of the others I rarely change the rotors unless it's gotten scarred up ..... except on my wife's car - she's a heavy braker and tends to warp the rotors

 

bed in rotors right after install and have none of "warp" issue.

 

Did not want to take the pain to remove the rotors. Took it to a shop; they measured and said it has 0.378 left and minimum should be 0.334.

They said it cannot be resurfaced since it will take two pass and each pass will take away 0.20 leaving it right at minimum thickness.

Brought back and just replaced pads - no resurface, no replacement of rotors. Don't know if it was right decision but want to know if the repair shop is honest when they said .378 is too less to resurface

 

Auto Zone says minimum spec is .334 You would be very close to minimum spec. Sounds like a heave cut but I did not see rotors.

 

Thanks ! So resurfacing indeed need 2 passes and each pass shaves off .20 ?

 

how much you have to machine a rotor varies based on warp and grooves if any each pass should only take around 4 thousands off but it often takes several passes to completely machine the entire surface.
so its possible they may of been able to be machined but they would of probably been close to min thickness.
rotors are fairly inexpensive so replacing rotors is probably done more now than turning them they may even send them out to a local parts store or machine shop to be turned if they don't have a brake lathe witch ties up there bay waiting for parts to return witch is why you will see more rotors replaced rather than spending the time to turn them or have them turned.

 

Thanks ! Rotors might be inexpensive if I DIY but it surely is a money minter for repair shops. The quote I had was $200 more if the Rotors need to be replaced (compared to resurfaced)

 

well of course if you do it yourself, quick price check at 2 parts stores showed rear rotors for under 35 bucks each probably half that at places like rock auto. so 200 seems like a very large mark up.

 

.20 seems like an awful lot to take off on a machining pass. Has to be .020, big difference. .20 is 1/5 of an inch. :WRECKER:

And $200 for rotors is a rip off IMHO.

 

Problem you have is partly resulting from not having rotors bedded in right after install. I had sinilar situation with my 04 CR-V, had to resurface rotors about every 15 000 miles. Until I found about bedding procedure and then for the next 75 000 never had to touch them again.

Also for those interested - here's my write up on how to replace rear rotor and parking shoes.

Tips on how to remove rear brake rotor - GreenHybrid - Hybrid Cars

 

$200 sounds a tad bit overpriced. Is installation included.