used car value
#1
09-16-18, 01:55 PM
used car value
What's the best way to determine the reasonable price/value for a used car just within the private sector and no car lots or dealerships involved? I'm looking at a 2001 Honda Passport that a private party is wanting to sell but they don't even really know what to ask. It seems to be in fair condition, starts good, runs good, etc. Mileage on the odometer says 83504. I tried looking at the Kelly Blue book site and typed in the info but it really doesn't seem to give me a good idea, there's too many questions/factors that are too difficult to determine and it just seems like it mostly just focuses on wanting to provide a trade-in value at a dealership for a new car but that's not what I want. Any comments/advice appreciated. I'd like to come up with fair offer for the person without being way off.
#3
09-16-18, 02:33 PM
Super Moderator
#4
09-16-18, 02:44 PM
Ok yeah thanks for those links; you'd think they should help. I'll check em out. Also looking for any other independent practical advice/comments otherwise too from regular people here.
Mileage on the odometer says 83504. Seems pretty low for a 2001 car. Not sure it really might be 183504 but already passed the maximum that can show on the odometer? How can somebody know that?
Mileage on the odometer says 83504. Seems pretty low for a 2001 car. Not sure it really might be 183504 but already passed the maximum that can show on the odometer? How can somebody know that?
#5
09-16-18, 03:08 PM
Age Mileage
Hard to hide the wear on a drivers seat. Also, the rubber footpads for the brake and gas pedals would show the higher milage outcome. They can be replaced, but seldom are. So these two areas will tell you if the car is odomoeter has gone once around.
If the body is good, everything else can be fixed. But the body can look ok outside, and be a mess underneath, once a unibody gets rusted its not so easy to make a good repair. So focus on the body condition to make sure you have a sound example. Look underneath, behind the rear wheel wells which is where lots of crud can collect and rot things.
Many cars are used as grocery getters and have short trip low mileage histories. This can be hard on a car, oil changes are important as the engine does not get to full operating temp which boils off moisure. Would be good if you can see how ofetn the car has been serviced by the current owner.
The price for the car depends on how well it was cared for, whether tires, battery, brakes and other consumables are new or recent. Keep in mind I think this year the car is actually an Izuzu Rodeo rebadged for Honda, made in the USA. Its reliability record in period was not very good.
If the body is good, everything else can be fixed. But the body can look ok outside, and be a mess underneath, once a unibody gets rusted its not so easy to make a good repair. So focus on the body condition to make sure you have a sound example. Look underneath, behind the rear wheel wells which is where lots of crud can collect and rot things.
Many cars are used as grocery getters and have short trip low mileage histories. This can be hard on a car, oil changes are important as the engine does not get to full operating temp which boils off moisure. Would be good if you can see how ofetn the car has been serviced by the current owner.
The price for the car depends on how well it was cared for, whether tires, battery, brakes and other consumables are new or recent. Keep in mind I think this year the car is actually an Izuzu Rodeo rebadged for Honda, made in the USA. Its reliability record in period was not very good.
#7
09-16-18, 03:17 PM
Yes, thanks flatcrank for those helpful comments which is the sort of practical info I was hoping to get, some guidelines that I think will serve me well in this particular situation.
#8
09-16-18, 09:57 PM
Member
Always the best advise for buying a used car is finding an independent repair shop and having it inspected.
They will easily be able to tell you if a car has 80 or 180K on it.
Actually we just bought my Son a 2001 Explorer with 80K so they are out there!
And yes the $40 inspection was great, showed that the truck was really clean and taken care of but did have some rocker sheet metal issues but that is very common with this vehicle and will be next years project!!
They will easily be able to tell you if a car has 80 or 180K on it.
Actually we just bought my Son a 2001 Explorer with 80K so they are out there!
And yes the $40 inspection was great, showed that the truck was really clean and taken care of but did have some rocker sheet metal issues but that is very common with this vehicle and will be next years project!!
#9
09-16-18, 11:28 PM
Marq1, that's probably some good advice too for sure; taking it to an independent repair shop to have it inspected. I'm not so sure though that such an inspection would cost only $40 though. It seems the shops in my area charge like 100+ bucks an hour minimum labor usually. I'd have to check with them to see what they'd charge for just a general inspection of condition.
#10
09-17-18, 05:14 AM
Group Moderator
In addition to the car valuation sites, I usually go to autotrader.com and search for the same or similar cars actually for sale and see how the price range runs, same as Zen mentions for the ebay site. Keeping in mind they are ASKING prices and not necessarily what the seller ultimately got for the car. 
#11
09-17-18, 12:50 PM
Member
Craigslist.
You find sample number of identical or very close vehicles. Determine how yours compares to them. Calculate median price of them and set yours to about 10% above it.
No one gives RT about any books anymore, far I know. Or TMV or things of that nature. Private is private and that is ruled by craigslist.
You find sample number of identical or very close vehicles. Determine how yours compares to them. Calculate median price of them and set yours to about 10% above it.
No one gives RT about any books anymore, far I know. Or TMV or things of that nature. Private is private and that is ruled by craigslist.
