I have a 2017 Chrysler 300 with the 3.5 litre V6. The Dealer has paid for (and done) the all the oil changes up til now which has been sweet for me, and they haven't stripped out the oil drain plug threads, and I don't want to either. It seems like 25 ft pounds of torque is ok but wanted to check with the REAL experts!
I've never put a torque wrench on a drain plug. All I have ever done is just make it nice and snug [by feel] No need to over tighten it. I'm not a mechanic but have always worked on my own stuff.
I will never short change MarkSr's advice, but after having two shops pay for the replacement of two complete oil pans (on my company trucks) because somebody else's Idea of "snug" was certainly not your, or my, idea of what that was lol So I try to get torque number and use the torque wrench whenever possible.
I like that quick drain, going after a couple of those! It almost looks like you could thread a drain hose on the outlet side of that valve to direct the oil stream better?
The one in the picture is an ez drain. I'm using the Fumoto ones.
I don't think mine had a threaded outlet.
On a van it's plenty high to get a large drain pan under it. (my diesel van uses 15qts of oil)
Sorry to say... I trust no one to change my oil.
Not sure if your vehicle uses a sealing gasket/ring but be sure to replace it.
Some vehicles use a copper or aluminum crush washer.
Your vehicle has a rubber washer to seal the drain plug. You tighten it until it bulges. They are re-useable.
I prefer the aluminum crush washer. Your drain plug is 14mm if you want to shop washers.
I used about 2 wraps of Teflon tape. So don't make it too tight in the drain hole if you use tape. Don't listent to the know it all crowd about Teflon. I put it in about 150K miles ago, and now I have 320K miles. Won't hurt a thing.
I guess I never heard anything bad about teflon tape. I HAVE to use it on my Cushman Golfster's OMC 18hp twin engine. I got a blank response when I asked the girl at Fumoto if she had one that fit THAT engine. I only change oil once a year on it, but it is a pain getting the plug out of it.
I'm about to change the timing belt and replace the oil pump o-ring on my 2011 Acura TL (3.7L J-series engine). In order to remove one of the pulleys, the passengers side motor mount has to be removed. Some of the videos I've watched show the engine being supported with a jack and wood block at certain times but not supported at other times. Sometimes the jack is used to simply push the engine up to gain better access. How important is it that the engine be supported during this job?
Also, I planned to Jack all four corners of the vehicle to have as much space to work underneath as possible. Is there a trick do doing this? I was thinking I'd drive the front wheels up onto my ramps them jack up the back and support wi the jackstands, then jack up the front a littler more and place the stands in the front. Is there a better way to do this?
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Hi again!
Please help diagnose another problem in this very old Honda Accord 2000 LX 5spd:
The central panel that controls AC, air, heating began intermittently going offline, which locks all the controls. It would usually be off when I start the car but come back online in a couple of minutes. Then it deteriorated to the point that now it almost never comes back.
The heat and AC settings get stuck in whatever state they were left the last time the panel was on but they keep working at those settings.
Sometimes the panel would literally just on and off a few times a second!
I tried to Google, and some people think it might be a faulty transistor on the passenger side under dash. Any truth to that?
Thank you!!Read More
03-06-23, 12:16 PM
