Cement board & bathroom tile patching


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Old 09-20-16, 03:36 AM
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Cement board & bathroom tile patching

My shower faucet was replaced recently from an old four dial system to a Moen faucet. The plumber had to knock out the cement in the bathroom wall to remove and replace.
I have to install cement board and tiles and really don't know what I'm doing. Take a look at the photos below. Does anyone have any information as to how I will cut the board, install wood and screw the board into the wall? Any information that you can provide is greatly appreciated!
 
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Old 09-20-16, 04:34 AM
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Do you have or can you get matching replacement tiles? I'd consider redoing all the tile or at least that one wall.
 
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Old 09-20-16, 06:35 AM
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The tile is old, I was going to purchase new tile. Do I need to knock all of the cement off the wall and install a cut sheet of cement board or just scrape the existing tiles and paste new? There are no spacers between the tile so it looks like it would be just pasting the new.

I'm also concerned about drafts coming through the wall. I live on Long Island, NY and the winter is brutal in my house! Constant drafts throughout the house. What do you think?
 
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Old 09-20-16, 06:41 AM
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Depending on the shape of the mud bed walls they can sometimes be reused BUT since you have drafts I'd be inclined to tear it all out and better insulate the exterior wall, install a vapor barrier, hang cement board and then tile.
 
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Old 09-20-16, 07:03 AM
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I'm not sure if I can financially do that at this time. I wonder if I can temporarily patch and down the road redo the entire wall. Do you have any idea what the cost might be to knock the wall and replace? I'm also not sure if I'm going to need to hire a contractor or take a stab at it myself.
 
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Old 09-20-16, 08:33 AM
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You should be able to do a patch job if you aren't concerned with all the tile matching. DIY costs aren't that bad as most of the tile job costs go to labor. While I've done some tile work, I'm a painter, the pro tile guys should be along later.
 
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Old 09-20-16, 10:39 AM
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Thank you very much for the information, it's a big help!
Regards,
Mike
 
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Old 09-20-16, 12:50 PM
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Mike, I'd go ahead and remove that entire wall, install insulation if it is an outside wall, replace the concrete backer underlayment (which, from the dating of the tile was not used originally) and tile that entire wall. Later, when you can afford it, tear out the other two walls and continue, so that it all matches. Using a white subway tile, similar to what you have will almost always be an in stock item. Those pink tiles won't be found, probably. Sort of like harvest gold and avocado in the 1970's.
 
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Old 09-20-16, 01:11 PM
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The gypsum board on the other side indicates an interior wall. Most plumbers would have gone through the back side in order not to disturb the tile
BUT what you have behind the tile looks like gypsum plaster. ICBW. But if I am right your tile will come loose easily and e plaster is easier to remove than Portland cement plaster

Chandlers advice is good or you could cut a piece of green drywall if you can find it and screw it right over what you have. It is not permanent but will buy some time until you can do the whole job right.
 
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Old 09-22-16, 08:32 AM
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Guys thank you for the information! I figured that the pink tiles would not be available. My house was built in 1941 and if you can believe it, most of the electric and plumbing is still original. The oil burner is the original one and still functioning! This weekend I am going to hunt for the supplies that you have suggested. Stay tuned, I'll be back!
Regards,
Mike
 
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Old 09-22-16, 09:40 AM
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The 2nd house my father bought was built right after WWII and had the same color tiles but they were steel, not ceramic. I remember helping him replace the bottom 2 courses of tile because of rust. Even then we couldn't find the same color tiles so just made the bottom an accent. Not sure either one of us knew what we were doing
 
 

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