Tape seam - lost adhesion


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Old 02-16-24, 07:11 AM
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Tape seam - lost adhesion

In a raised / cathedral ceiling part of my house a couple of areas have the seam tape have become loose. It is two areas about 2' long & only one side of the seam has lost its adhesion. You can see a small gap between it & the drywall underneath, it looks like a small creak but I can tell its the tape that has come unstuck.

I will not pull down those sections of tape as the ceiling has a knock down texture and would be very hard to replicate / blend in for only these two small areas. Doing that would also require repainting the entire ceiling of that room and its 15' in the air. Ripping the tape down & re-mudding would make a little project into a much bigger one.

My thoughts would be to use a syringe that contains some type of clear glue to inject into that loose area, hold it tight for a few seconds / minute until it dries. I would do my best to not disturb the other sections of the seam nor mess up the ceiling texture in those areas. If a small spot of texture popped off, I believe I could very selectively repair & blend. But not a 2-3' strip in two separate places.

Has that worked successfully in other similar situations and what type of glue would you recommend? Also is there any special precautions should I take to complete this?

I appreciate your help & experience on this. Thanks Mike
 
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Old 02-16-24, 08:43 AM
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On rentals I have occasionally used caulking to hide the crack. Obliviously the best fix is to remove the unstuck tape, mud, texture and repaint but as you know that's a bit more work.
 
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Old 02-16-24, 10:28 AM
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Never heard of this. Will you let us know how it works? You need a kind of glue that will flow through your syringe. I don't know what that is.
 
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Old 02-17-24, 05:05 AM
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I have run into the same problem several times. Yes you can inject cyanoacrylate glue (Super Glue or CA) behind the tape. Go to the drugstore and get some small gauge needles like used for insulin. Then get thin CA glue. You do NOT want jell, medium or thick. You want thin like water.

There are two ways to fill the syringe Etick Stick the tip of the needle into the ca and slowly pull back on the plunger. It's a tiny hole for the glue to flow through so be patient. Or, you can unscrew the needle tip and just stick the base plunger tip into the CA to suck up the glue. Then reattach the needle tip.

Then you can insert the needle into the crack and slightly pull the tape away to get the needle underneath the tape. Then inject a few small spots of glue in the area. Then push the tape against the wall and hold for about 10 seconds until it sticks.

I don't work with gloves. I find it too easy to stick the fingers together. Using bare hands I can feel where/when I tough glue and can wipe it off with acetone.

If you keep the syringe clean the glue doesn't harden in the syring. If you pull back on the plunger when the needle is in the sheetrock it might suck in some dust which will cause the glue to harden. So, when the needle is in the wall only push on the plunger.
 
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Old 02-19-24, 02:11 PM
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Guys,

Thanks for the replies, I will try it & let you know how well it works. Might be a month or so before I can get around to making the fix as I have a busy month for work & other personal trips coming up. But I will let you all know once done. Thanks Mike
 
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Old 02-21-24, 10:25 AM
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Didn't want to start a new thread since 1/2 my answer is in this one.

Similar situation here but tape seam lifted on one side in a corner. (Not both walls) I plan on using the same technique as Pilot Dane suggested, however to complicate my issue I'll need to somehow fill what appears to be a crack about 12" long top to bottom. This "crack" is less than a 1/16" wide and follows the edge of the paper. Thinking about using DAP DryDex or possibly a latex caulk. Input much appreciated.

Steve
 
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Old 02-21-24, 10:55 AM
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Joint compound is what is normally used to fill/hide the crack.
 
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Old 02-21-24, 12:38 PM
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If the tape has lifted you need to slice the tape out and retape. If it's just a crack and nothing moves when you push on it you can flat tape over it. Use joint compound, not drydex.
 
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Old 02-21-24, 02:30 PM
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Input from XSeeper and marksr appreciated.

Was hoping NOT to get into the re-taping, mudding, re-finishing thing. Since the tape hasn't lifted to where you can get a finger nail under it I'm going with joint compound only (not DryDex) to fill the crack and see what happens.

Plenty of time to deal with it.

Thanks again
 
 

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