A 2010 Ford Ranger question
#1
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A 2010 Ford Ranger question
2010 ranger 4 cyl.
I bought it ith 102k miles on it and it has burning a quart of oil every 2500 miles but now is burning much more. I change the oil properly and timely but now is burning a quart every 1000 miles. The oil is now getting dirty every 2000 miles and must be changed then.
I drive 300 miles a day, FYI, and the truck now has 265K miles on it but I usually get 325k to 350k out of a Ranger.
I will change the pcv valve but is there anything else I can do to stop the burning of oil?
I have to have the emissions inspected in September. If I can't fix the problem I can stall the inspection, flunk it and this will buy me some time until I replace the vehicle.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!!!
Chuck
I bought it ith 102k miles on it and it has burning a quart of oil every 2500 miles but now is burning much more. I change the oil properly and timely but now is burning a quart every 1000 miles. The oil is now getting dirty every 2000 miles and must be changed then.
I drive 300 miles a day, FYI, and the truck now has 265K miles on it but I usually get 325k to 350k out of a Ranger.
I will change the pcv valve but is there anything else I can do to stop the burning of oil?
I have to have the emissions inspected in September. If I can't fix the problem I can stall the inspection, flunk it and this will buy me some time until I replace the vehicle.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!!!
Chuck
#2
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Sounds like the engine needs to be rebuilt or replaced. I suspect the more frequent oil changes are cleaning out some of the deposits/sludge in the engine and that's why the oil is dirtier.
#3
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Any signs of leaks, such as spots under it where you park, smoking on the exhaust pipe when you shut it off? If need be, I'd clean the outside of it as good as you can in order to see if a valve cover, timing cover, or anything like that might be leaking. After that I would probably do a compression check. Not sure because I've always had them, but you might be able to borrow or rent a tester from a parts store, otherwise I doubt they're that expensive, although I haven't bought one in years. If the compression check showed consistency between cylinders and they were all in an acceptable range I would probably suspect valve stem seals. Not ignoring the PVC system, just that you already said you were doing that, and that's a good place to start. And obviously check the hose and clamps while you're doing that.
#4
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You can go up a viscosity grade in the oil or boost it with an additive. A heavier oil on that engine may cut your mpg.
Or you can try a can of Engine Restore. Sometimes it makes a difference. One can per oil change.
Or you can try a can of Engine Restore. Sometimes it makes a difference. One can per oil change.
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Thanks for all of the advice.
There are no leaks and I will check the tail pipe for black soot but there is no smoke coming out of the tail pipe.
I will look at it tomorrow.
Thanks again!!!
Chuck
There are no leaks and I will check the tail pipe for black soot but there is no smoke coming out of the tail pipe.
I will look at it tomorrow.
Thanks again!!!
Chuck
#6
Its the engine, with that many miles the piston rings and or cylinders have larger gaps so the oil is bypassing and getting burned thus as the wear increases so does the oil consumption.
Head can also have the leaking valve guides.
As mentioned the "engine restore" fluids just raise the viscosity so less oil gets by but it does not solve the problem and can lead to other issues.
Engine simply needs rebuilding!
Head can also have the leaking valve guides.
As mentioned the "engine restore" fluids just raise the viscosity so less oil gets by but it does not solve the problem and can lead to other issues.
Engine simply needs rebuilding!