When to replace Caliper Unit? In Addition to pads and rotors?
#1
When to replace Caliper Unit? In Addition to pads and rotors?
At what point do you need to replace the brake caliper unit? First off Nissan frontier, first truck, with only 22k I let it sit one winter (may have frozen the caliper). This is Concerning the Rear brakes; I started to feel the pad go. Then I felt erratic sound coming from the right rear. So I needed to get a closer look but in the meantime I may have waited a bit too long. I took both wheels off noticed I lost the brake pad and plate completely. I noticed I wore .020 off the caliper evenly (NON- Piston side). So I plan to replace both rotors and pads, can I get away with not replacing the caliper themselves (right rear only)? I never installed one on a truck or car for that fact. Or am I setting myself up for more complications by ignoring it now and possibly having to do it later anyway?
PS If you all recommend I do it, Can only one side be done? Or suggest both? ( most likely do both) and How complicated is it? Seems like it gets replaced from the Banjo fitting on. (including full brake bleed )
Thanks
PS If you all recommend I do it, Can only one side be done? Or suggest both? ( most likely do both) and How complicated is it? Seems like it gets replaced from the Banjo fitting on. (including full brake bleed )
Thanks
#3
That's pretty sad..... brakes gone at 22k miles.
You replace calipers when they freeze up from rust. When you change the brake pads you need to push the caliper piston back in. If it binds at all.... it needs to be replaced.
Typically OEM brake pads are good for 50k miles +..... at least from American made vehicles.
You replace calipers when they freeze up from rust. When you change the brake pads you need to push the caliper piston back in. If it binds at all.... it needs to be replaced.
Typically OEM brake pads are good for 50k miles +..... at least from American made vehicles.
#4
Replacing a caliper is pretty rare, even more so at 22K miles, they usually last the life of the vehicle.
Typ what happens is the piston get seized in the bore due to corrosion, bad fluid and honestly the replacement part price is cheap enough that trying to rebuild, although it can be done, is not worth the effort.
One vs both, sure, they are pretty benign so not required in pairs, more so with pads and rotors!
SImple replacement, just need a good bleed with GOOD fluid!
Typ what happens is the piston get seized in the bore due to corrosion, bad fluid and honestly the replacement part price is cheap enough that trying to rebuild, although it can be done, is not worth the effort.
One vs both, sure, they are pretty benign so not required in pairs, more so with pads and rotors!
SImple replacement, just need a good bleed with GOOD fluid!
#5
Member
I agree with PJ, way too early to have to replace either, but, since one side sounds necessary, I agree with Alan in regard to changing both. Yes, you're going to have to bleed them, which means you're going to want a helper, so may as well do them both while you have a rythm going. You can buy the calipers "loaded", which means they include the pads, and knock on wood I haven't had to do any in a while but seems it worked out to measurable savings to get them that way. How old is the truck by the way? I might be inclined to do some looking on the internet if I were you, to see how common this problem is, and regardless of that outcome might still talk with the dealer. Not that they are going to volunteer anything in the absence of a recall, but you might be able to catch someone in the right frame of mind to give you a break on the prices.
#6
Forum Topic Moderator
I've replaced calipers on a lot of vehicles with 100k miles or more. I generally just replace the one that is bad. Often a sticky brake on one side will be the first sign. On my jeep I had to replace 3 calipers [over a 6 month period] around the 60k mark
