Changing toilet location
#1
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Changing toilet location
Im planning to move the toilet about 30' from the present location
Im wondering if I could cut the existing cast iron drain pipe leaving about a foot connected to the stack,to install a flexible fitting to connect a new ABS drain pipe that ll be coming at a different angle ,about 20 degrees
Is the rust in the pipe an issue?
Thank you
#2
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Yes, you can do that. Make sure to use a shielded coupling (rubber sleeve covered by metal bands) not just a rubber coupling. You'll need to use a 22.5 degree el to make the bend, you can't run the pipe into the coupling at an angle.
Cutting CI is not so easy. Traditionally it was done with a chain snapper, which you can rent. Now you can get special reciprocating saw blades that will cut it, albeit slowly. CI Pipe is really heavy. Make sure it's very well supported while you cut it.
The rust will only be a problem if it is deeper than the minor surface rust it appears to be. Clean it off the area where the coupling will be as well as you can.
[Edit] One more thing....the coupling you buy has to be rated for connecting CI to ABS (PL).
Cutting CI is not so easy. Traditionally it was done with a chain snapper, which you can rent. Now you can get special reciprocating saw blades that will cut it, albeit slowly. CI Pipe is really heavy. Make sure it's very well supported while you cut it.
The rust will only be a problem if it is deeper than the minor surface rust it appears to be. Clean it off the area where the coupling will be as well as you can.
[Edit] One more thing....the coupling you buy has to be rated for connecting CI to ABS (PL).
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Thank you for replay.
Is there a way to avoid cutting the CI pipe?
I'm guessing the joint is leaded, is there a way to disconnect the drain pipe from the stack?
If possible
Is there an ABS fitting to connect the new ABS drain pipe to the CI stack?
Thank you
Is there a way to avoid cutting the CI pipe?
I'm guessing the joint is leaded, is there a way to disconnect the drain pipe from the stack?
If possible
Is there an ABS fitting to connect the new ABS drain pipe to the CI stack?
Thank you
#4
Easier to just cut the pipe and use a no hub. I'd use PVC not ABS. Just like it better but maybe that's just because around here it is mostly only found in mobile homes. It isn't even sold most places. There was a post on here earlier about how easy older ABS breaks. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/pl...-abs-pipe.html It is probably better now.
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In my area ABS is more popular and easier to find.
Never cut a CI pipe before but reading about it seems to be quite difficult
The existing toilet is about 80'' from the stack ,the new location will add another 12'' for a total 92'' I hope it won't affect the vent
Is it a good idea to install a T half way between the toilet and stack for clean out purposes?
Thank you
Never cut a CI pipe before but reading about it seems to be quite difficult
The existing toilet is about 80'' from the stack ,the new location will add another 12'' for a total 92'' I hope it won't affect the vent
Is it a good idea to install a T half way between the toilet and stack for clean out purposes?
Thank you
#6
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Is the toilet the only thing this line serves? Hard to tell from picture, but I'm guessing it's 4" CI? (would be close to 5" OD). Is there a separate vent now, or just the stack?
There's variation depending on local codes, but generally with 4" pipe sloped at 1/4" per foot, the vent can be 10 feet from the toilet.
I agree with Ray that's it's easier to cut than to disassemble a leaded joint. It's pretty much impossible to melt the lead and oakum out, so you have to drill as much of it out as possible and then scrape and chisel the rest. If you do that, then you buy a rubber piece commonly called a donut to mate PVC or ABS to the hub fitting.
There's variation depending on local codes, but generally with 4" pipe sloped at 1/4" per foot, the vent can be 10 feet from the toilet.
I agree with Ray that's it's easier to cut than to disassemble a leaded joint. It's pretty much impossible to melt the lead and oakum out, so you have to drill as much of it out as possible and then scrape and chisel the rest. If you do that, then you buy a rubber piece commonly called a donut to mate PVC or ABS to the hub fitting.
#7
tHATS A LONG RUN TO MOVE THE TOILET AND LOOKING AT THE PIPING i WOULD SAY THE VENTING IS NOT TO CODE...
i WOULD SAY YOU MAY/WILL HAVE TOILET SIPHONING ISSUES IF YOU DONT VENT PROPERLY...
Sry just realized caps locks were on. Ignore the caps...
i WOULD SAY YOU MAY/WILL HAVE TOILET SIPHONING ISSUES IF YOU DONT VENT PROPERLY...
Sry just realized caps locks were on. Ignore the caps...
#8
After you address the venting problem Mike pointed out the cutting will be the easy part.
Reading the wrong sites. You just rent a chain snapper. Diamond saws and grinders and hand hacksaw with carbide blades are to be avoided in my opinion.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76UdL1Gzx48
Never cut a CI pipe before but reading about it seems to be quite difficult
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76UdL1Gzx48
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Thanks for advise on cutting the pipe
Venting, that is another issue .
The toilet now is 7' 10'' from the stack ,the pipe is 3'' and the tub and bathroom sink are also connected to the stack .
This is the way is been for almost 60 yrs , toilet and other fixtures seem to drain properly .
Some times when there is a lot of snow on the roof and the vent gets buried under, then there is some siphoning but normally not
However adding another 10 or 12 inches to the distance to the stack may create a problem and I'm not sure how to solve it
Venting, that is another issue .
The toilet now is 7' 10'' from the stack ,the pipe is 3'' and the tub and bathroom sink are also connected to the stack .
This is the way is been for almost 60 yrs , toilet and other fixtures seem to drain properly .
Some times when there is a lot of snow on the roof and the vent gets buried under, then there is some siphoning but normally not
However adding another 10 or 12 inches to the distance to the stack may create a problem and I'm not sure how to solve it
#10
You need to make sure the sink is vented in the wall. Meaning the sink vent ties into the stack.
Then if your moving the toilet the sink needs to drain into the new toilet line.. Then the tub drains into the sink line. This will then vent everything to code and you will have no more issues...
Like this..
Then if your moving the toilet the sink needs to drain into the new toilet line.. Then the tub drains into the sink line. This will then vent everything to code and you will have no more issues...
Like this..
#12
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It's unlikely 12 more inches will cause a problem.
It's also unlikely an inspector would accept it. To vent it the traditional way you would need to tie into the drain closer to the toilet, then run the vent up through a wall until you can tie back into the stack (or another vent line) above the highest drain connection. Or you can run it out the roof separately. The easiest way might be to run the vent line right next to your existing stack, and make the tie in in the attic.
If they are accepted in your area, an air admittance valve (AAV) would probably be a whole lot easier to install.
It's also unlikely an inspector would accept it. To vent it the traditional way you would need to tie into the drain closer to the toilet, then run the vent up through a wall until you can tie back into the stack (or another vent line) above the highest drain connection. Or you can run it out the roof separately. The easiest way might be to run the vent line right next to your existing stack, and make the tie in in the attic.
If they are accepted in your area, an air admittance valve (AAV) would probably be a whole lot easier to install.
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l
Thanks again for all replays for I'm learning a lot
'' You need to make sure the sink is vented in the wall. Meaning the sink vent ties into the stack. ''
How do I do that ? The sink is about 2 feet from the stack and it drains there.
The bathtub drain visible in the picture is 1 1/2'' and I assume so is the sink drain and vent . The diagram calls for 2'' sink drain and vent .How do I get around that?
'' The easiest way might be to run the vent line right next to your existing stack, and make the tie in in the attic.''
That would involve cutting the stack to install a fitting to connect the new vent line?
If an AAV becomes the most practical option where would it be installed?
Apologies for so many questios
Thanks again for all replays for I'm learning a lot
'' You need to make sure the sink is vented in the wall. Meaning the sink vent ties into the stack. ''
How do I do that ? The sink is about 2 feet from the stack and it drains there.
The bathtub drain visible in the picture is 1 1/2'' and I assume so is the sink drain and vent . The diagram calls for 2'' sink drain and vent .How do I get around that?
'' The easiest way might be to run the vent line right next to your existing stack, and make the tie in in the attic.''
That would involve cutting the stack to install a fitting to connect the new vent line?
If an AAV becomes the most practical option where would it be installed?
Apologies for so many questios
#14
Im planning to move the toilet about 30' from the present location
It's unlikely 12 more inches will cause a problem.
Seems more then 12" from what the OP stated.
'' You need to make sure the sink is vented in the wall. Meaning the sink vent ties into the stack. ''
How do I do that ?
How do I do that ?
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Im planning to move the toilet about 30' from the present location"
It's unlikely 12 more inches will cause a problem."
Seems more then 12" from what the OP stated."
Thanks Mike, maybe I wasn't clear about moving the toilet30" and only adding 10 or 12 inches to the length of the pipe.
Imagine a circle with the stack been at the center and the toilet on a point in the circumference . The new location could be 30" from the existing but if it is withing that circle it wont add any to the pipe's length
Sorry about the confusion
Regards
It's unlikely 12 more inches will cause a problem."
Seems more then 12" from what the OP stated."
Thanks Mike, maybe I wasn't clear about moving the toilet30" and only adding 10 or 12 inches to the length of the pipe.
Imagine a circle with the stack been at the center and the toilet on a point in the circumference . The new location could be 30" from the existing but if it is withing that circle it wont add any to the pipe's length
Sorry about the confusion
Regards
#16
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As I said, I think it's unlikely an extra 12" will cause a problem. Having said that, if you are not demoing the entire room, and assuming this pipe serves only the toilet since you said the tub and lav tie into the stack separately (at least I think that's what you said), then you could put an AAV on this pipe close to the toilet. The AAV would be tied in using a sanitary Tee and the bottom of the AAV has to be at least 4 inches above the top of the pipe. Note, if there isn't that much room right above the pipe, like in a joist space, you can run 2" vent pipe from the tee to wherever you have room for the AAV.
If you are demoing the room, than you should consider one of the methods Mike described.
If you are demoing the room, than you should consider one of the methods Mike described.
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Thank you Paul
It looks more and more like Im going to need to gut the bathroom and get everything up to code .Funny how this project started with just moving the toilet and now looks like a major reno
I just posted a new thread on the tubs forum on how to remove a CI bathtub besides pounding it with a sledge.
Need to save some energy for the rest of the job.
It looks more and more like Im going to need to gut the bathroom and get everything up to code .Funny how this project started with just moving the toilet and now looks like a major reno
I just posted a new thread on the tubs forum on how to remove a CI bathtub besides pounding it with a sledge.
Need to save some energy for the rest of the job.
#19
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If you find an easier way to demo a CI tub besides breaking it up, let me know. I've only done it once and it was a bit of a job...but I did find it kind of cathartic. Like splitting wood....hard work, but let's you blow off some steam. Wear hearing protection and a full face shield plus goggles.