Installing a Ball Valve on Gas Line

I have recently moved in to my first home and purchased a gas dryer. For it to be installed the appliance company requires a ball valve to be in place. I am largely unfamiliar with working on gas lines but do know how to turn the main off. In order to install the ball valve I would just unscrew the old valve (with the gas off at the main) and screw the ball valve on, correct? Is there anything in this process that I may be leaving out? I do plan on leak testing it. I can't see myself hiring a plumber for something that seems so relatively simple. Pictures attached of the old valve.

 

I'm not touching this one with a fork or a pointed stick!

 

I wouldn't recommend this job as a learning job, there are serious problems.

You might be thinking about changing the valve with the red arrow to a ball valve and the problem is fixed, it's not.
The valve should be connected directly to the elbow in yellow, or to the stub out behind it.
You can't do that because of the valve to the right, which looks like it goes into the wall.

Everything from the yellow arrow to the right needs replaced. We are here to help but this is not for a beginner.

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Hi Handyone,

Thanks for the info and the arrows. I was actually thinking that the ball valve could be threaded on to the elbow with the yellow arrow. The blue arrow does not connect into the wall, however it is positioned very close. I will contact a licensed professional if need be.

 

You are good to go since the right valve doesn't go into the wall.

 

Gas piping isn't rocket science, but it does require some skill and knowledge to ensure safety. With plumbing, the worst that happens is a leak and some water. With gas piping the risks can be much greater.

With the pipes so close to the wall, it will be difficult to unscrew and re-screw the pipes/valves. I'm actually not sure how they got that all in place, and it may need to be cut out and the elbow on the left replaced. I too would recommend leaving this job to a plumber. At least you'll know it's done correctly, safely, and with no leaks.

 

I would put a pry bad on the 90 and /gently/ see if there's any wiggle room available -- either the piping comes forward a little or the wood paneling moves back. Emphasis on gentle. If you do get a little more room, you can disassemble the existing valves to remove them. Look for a ball valve that will disassemble, install it, then reassemble. Use pipe dope on the male fittings only and not on the first couple of threads.

If you can't get enough room to work, you could saw off the 90 (careful not to damage the threads) and either put the ball valve right there, or screw on a coupling then a 90.

 

I agree with Handyone, Zorft, and Steve_gro. No reason this can't done by the OP with the cautions as stated. However, I want clarification. Is that second valve (to the far right, blue arrow) connected to anything? If not you're good to go. Remove that street elbow if you cant get enough room to screw on the ball valve. Add a coupling to extend it out a little. Then you can add valve or nipple or elbow to do what you need. Be sure to use soapy water for leak testing.

OR you cam remove the pipe nipple and valve from the tee fitting and use a plug to cap it off. Then just add your ball valve to replace the old valve.