How do I remove clean out cap?
#1
01-23-17, 10:31 AM
How do I remove clean out cap?
Hello all!
Having trouble removing clean out cap. It's sunken a bit below grade. I tied a 10" crescent wrench and a pair of channel lock "pipe pliers" but the cap hasn't budged and it's starting to get stripped...Any ideas?
Having trouble removing clean out cap. It's sunken a bit below grade. I tied a 10" crescent wrench and a pair of channel lock "pipe pliers" but the cap hasn't budged and it's starting to get stripped...Any ideas?
#2
01-23-17, 11:18 AM
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
Posts: 16,321
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I would try drilling a "dimple" into the face on the outer periphery, just deep enough to let you use a 1/4 inch punch and hammer to ease the cap off. More likely as not you will severely damage the cap in the removal process so having a new cap handy is a good idea. Be sure to grease the threads liberally before replacing the cap so it doesn't get so tight.
#3
01-23-17, 11:53 AM
Group Moderator
There are square drive wrenches to fit cleanouts. Obviously that's probably the most proper way. You can also use a chisel on the perimeter like Furd mentioned. You can also drill two holes into the cap and insert a screwdriver into the holes then stick a wrench, board or piece of pipe between the two screwdrivers and unscrew the cap.
#4
01-23-17, 11:56 AM
18" pipe wrench* and a three foot pipe cheater bar.
*A monkey wrench might be better but few people have them so a pipe wrench especially if it is starting to strip is best. A 3' length of 1½" galvanized pipe makes a good cheater bar. You could also try an 8 point socket and a break over bar.
*A monkey wrench might be better but few people have them so a pipe wrench especially if it is starting to strip is best. A 3' length of 1½" galvanized pipe makes a good cheater bar. You could also try an 8 point socket and a break over bar.
#5
01-23-17, 12:50 PM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,104
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c135-
I had a plug on my oil tank that would NOT come out. I tried and tried. I used WD40, liquid wrench, long and then even longer cheater bars – you name it. It would not budge. Then I saw a video from an elderly gentleman who used a hammer and a block of wood, banging the wood with the hammer against the plug forcing the plug to turn in the counterclockwise direction.
I used that method after I has soaked the plug with liquid wrench for hours. Sure enough the plug came out. I don’t know whether that was just luck or what.
I can’t remember whether I used a small sledge hammer or a regular claw hammer – but the plug came out. Maybe it was just luck and all the other tries had actually loosened it. Who knows. But maybe you could try that method.
I had a plug on my oil tank that would NOT come out. I tried and tried. I used WD40, liquid wrench, long and then even longer cheater bars – you name it. It would not budge. Then I saw a video from an elderly gentleman who used a hammer and a block of wood, banging the wood with the hammer against the plug forcing the plug to turn in the counterclockwise direction.
I used that method after I has soaked the plug with liquid wrench for hours. Sure enough the plug came out. I don’t know whether that was just luck or what.
I can’t remember whether I used a small sledge hammer or a regular claw hammer – but the plug came out. Maybe it was just luck and all the other tries had actually loosened it. Who knows. But maybe you could try that method.
#6
01-23-17, 12:53 PM
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
Posts: 16,321
Received 38 Upvotes
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30 Posts
As I interpret the pictures the cap has a raised square "spud" so Pilot's recessed square hole wrench won't work. Drilling the two holes and using rods (screwdrivers) with a long board or the like might work IF you can keep the rods from twisting. This might be accomplished by having a smaller block of wood between the rods next to the cap. Using a chisel instead of drilling dimple and using a punch would probably work better than my original idea.
Ray's idea would be good IF the cap were closer to the top of the hole but I suspect because it IS in a hole the wrench cannot get a good grip in the spud. An eight-point socket of the proper size might work as you could use an extension to get the breaker bar above the edges of the hole, downside is finding an eight-point socket of the correct size AND it still being able to fit on the somewhat damaged spud.
Ray's idea would be good IF the cap were closer to the top of the hole but I suspect because it IS in a hole the wrench cannot get a good grip in the spud. An eight-point socket of the proper size might work as you could use an extension to get the breaker bar above the edges of the hole, downside is finding an eight-point socket of the correct size AND it still being able to fit on the somewhat damaged spud.
#8
01-29-17, 10:11 AM
Member
#9
01-29-17, 10:44 AM
His tops aren't countersunk, but are proud of the surface. I think shock and awe with a chisel , then a combination of a pipe wrench and length of pipe on the handle (cheater) with PB Blaster mixed in will be the best choice.
#10
01-30-17, 10:36 AM
Furd
As I interpret the pictures the cap has a raised square "spud" so Pilot's recessed square hole wrench won't work.
As I interpret the pictures the cap has a raised square "spud" so Pilot's recessed square hole wrench won't work.
chandler
His tops aren't countersunk, but are proud of the surface.
His tops aren't countersunk, but are proud of the surface.
I don't know if I don't understand but that sure looks like a "hole" that you stick something in to turn it, or not?
#11
01-30-17, 11:38 AM
FWIW: These are the other two clean outs that I have.
Ideally, if possible, I'd like to get one tool for all.
Laundry room inside house; 2" inches deep in concrete floor
PVC outside next pool 2-3" inches deep in concrete deck
Ideally, if possible, I'd like to get one tool for all.
Laundry room inside house; 2" inches deep in concrete floor
PVC outside next pool 2-3" inches deep in concrete deck
#12
01-30-17, 12:19 PM
Group Moderator
Plumbing suppliers sell the wrenches and I just checked and also found them on Amazon. Some will only work on a cap that's flush or accessible so look at them before buying to make sure it can get down to your recessed cap. If you can't find anything store bought that will do what you want ask a friend with a welder or go by a machine/welding shop with the dimensions of the squares on your caps and have them quickly throw together a tool for you. If you just go in as a job I have no idea what some may charge you but if you catch them on a quiet Friday afternoon and happen to have a "thank you" 6 pack with you...
#13
02-20-17, 11:17 AM
Originally Posted by Baldwin
Originally Posted by Furd
As I interpret the pictures the cap has a raised square "spud" so Pilot's recessed square hole wrench won't work.
Originally Posted by chandler
His tops aren't countersunk, but are proud of the surface.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]77468[/ATTACH]
That said, I still can't get this to budge even after soaking edges with Blaster several days.
Let's talk about using a chisel. These are the chisels that I have. Which would you use and how? I mean what is the goal...to destroy it, pop it off or twist it off?? [ATTACH=CONFIG]77469[/ATTACH]
How do you use a chisel?
FWIW: This is the smaller of the 2 old chisels.
#15
02-20-17, 12:30 PM
Originally Posted by Pilot Dane
Plumbing suppliers sell the wrenches and I just checked and also found them on Amazon. Some will only work on a cap that's flush or accessible so look at them before buying to make sure it can get down to your recessed cap. If you can't find anything store bought that will do what you want ask a friend with a welder or go by a machine/welding shop with the dimensions of the squares on your caps and have them quickly throw together a tool for you. If you just go in as a job I have no idea what some may charge you but if you catch them on a quiet Friday afternoon and happen to have a "thank you" 6 pack with you...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNF8gF5LzbY
Last edited by c1351996; 02-20-17 at 02:09 PM.
#16
02-23-17, 04:36 PM
Got it...Thanks to all!
I drilled 1/4" holes along 2 sides of the square nut, used small chisel to bend one corner up and ripped it out with channel lock piers. Used a sawzall to cut "pizza slices" from each of the 4 corners of the square opening toward the outer edges of cap; stopping short of the drain pipe threads, so not to damage. Broke pieces off with channel locks, until all came out. If anyone can tell me where I can get 3" lead tapered (not threaded) caps, I'd appreciate it!
I drilled 1/4" holes along 2 sides of the square nut, used small chisel to bend one corner up and ripped it out with channel lock piers. Used a sawzall to cut "pizza slices" from each of the 4 corners of the square opening toward the outer edges of cap; stopping short of the drain pipe threads, so not to damage. Broke pieces off with channel locks, until all came out. If anyone can tell me where I can get 3" lead tapered (not threaded) caps, I'd appreciate it!
