Replacing drain pipe but no space to splice?

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Old 07-17-17, 12:03 PM
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Replacing drain pipe but no space to splice?

Hi guys im doing a kitchen renovation and replacing a double sink for a single, and the new sink drain is positioned closer to the wall. Because of that the Y pipe that comes out from the wall will get in the way for the new plumbing.

I'm not sure how to explain this but the Y pipe is so massive it doesn't have any bare pipe to cut and spice.

Do I replace the whole thing from inside the wall?

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Thanks as always
 
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Old 07-17-17, 12:18 PM
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Get rid of that whole why mess under the sink. Isn't needed. Cut the why at the back of the hub and install a 45 street el and a drain adapter. Use slip fitting to connect the two bowels of your sink and a single trap into the drain adapter.

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Similar to this but with the trap angled at 45.


Or use a center connector.
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If you have a garbage disposer on one sink then you connect one side of the tee to it. Often you can go straight in.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 07-17-17 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 07-17-17, 02:43 PM
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Thanks for the swift reply ray.

So do I cut at the green line or red line, the pipe bends 90* to the right inside the wall.

I don't have much experience in plumbing but what do I do once I cut the pipe?
The area to cut doesn't have a straight pipe to cement the new adaptor onto.
And there will be a male pipe stuck into the female end that goes into the wall.
Is there a trick I don't know of?


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Old 07-17-17, 05:20 PM
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The area to cut doesn't have a straight pipe to cement the new adaptor onto.
I didn't see that in your first picture. My suggestion won't work without a little extra work. You can cut at the green line and try to use a "socket saver"* to drill the old pipe out of the elbow. Then you can glue a new fitting into the elbow. Perhaps a 45 street ell and then a 1' female pvc x 1" threaded trap adapter. Example of a "socket saver". https://www.amazon.com/Jones-Stephen...REB5SKD5JYQ9T5

*"Socket savers" ate not something I have ever used but they seem to work. There are videos on Youtube. The other way is to open the wall and see if there isn't another way that is better.
 
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Old 07-17-17, 08:10 PM
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What if I cut at the blue line, I think it's fairly straight to cement a adaptor?Name:  IMG_4922.jpg
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Old 07-17-17, 08:28 PM
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I would cut at the blue line and then use a pipe wrench or big channel lock pliers to unscrew the fitting from the wall. Then you can see what you need to go forward.

Put the tool on the blue side of the green line.
 
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Old 07-17-17, 10:22 PM
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Thanks for replying pjmax,
Do you think the pipe is threaded at the wall?
I tried grabbing the Y pipe and twisting it but it wouldnt budge.
Is it usually threaded at the wall?
Thanks
 
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Old 07-17-17, 10:59 PM
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If the plumbing in the wall is plastic then there most likely won't be anything threaded. I thought I read metal pipe in the wall.

Another thing you could try is to cut the flange (large end) of the fitting parallel to the pipe and using a large screwdriver.... split the fitting open.
 
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Old 07-23-17, 11:21 AM
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Thanks guys for the advices,

So i got as far as to cutting the pipe at the green line, there was a 2 inch pipe right in between the flanges, but the pipe was bonded so well that i needed to use a socket saver, luckly there was a Ferguson close by that had the Raptor socket saver.

The socket saver seemed to have bored out the flange fine, but im worried about the rough surface where it bored out.

Is there a special technique i should use to pvc cement on bored out pipe? or would i do it the same way, prime and cement both push in and twist? Maybe use more cement?

Just worried that the rough surface would make tiny gaps
 

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Old 07-23-17, 12:16 PM
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You can glue it normally. Maybe sand a little first with emery cloth and clean both surfaces well.
I just saw this thread now, so I didn't get a chance to advise.

If all else fails, a 2" to 1-1/2" shielded no-hub coupler will work.
The 2" side of the no hub will fit a little loose on the 1-1/2" HUB (or slip on tightly), but will seal when tightened to the proper 60 inch pounds of torque.
On the 1.5" side of the no-hub, you can insert a 45 street elbow and glue in a male trap adapter.
 
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Old 07-23-17, 12:17 PM
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Maybe try a little sandpaper first.
 
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Old 07-23-17, 12:46 PM
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Thanks guys, so I sanded the inside of the flange, primed and pvc welded only to realize the black pipe was ABS. I did a quick search online and it seems like it's wouldn't be much of a problem. Hopefully.
Handyone, I never have thought of using a coupler for the connection, I had no idea until you mentioned it lol. If the weld I made fails I will definately go with that route.

It might look a mature but here's what I did...
I will weld a marvel adaptor on the end once everything cures.
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Old 07-23-17, 06:54 PM
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The PVC and ABS don't mix, I wouldn't take a chance and just go the No-hub route. You need to clean off the existing ABS hub very good, take your time. You also need to get rid of the white fittings. Cut the adapter off flush to the front of the hub and do another socket ream or whatever it takes.
In your first picture above you were done, if you would have glued in a 45 ABS street elbow using ABS cement.

I've made bigger mistakes so don't take it hard. You can always cut out the drywall and replace the sanitary tee in the wall. We can guide you through that and the hardest part is patching the drywall.
You will also need an oscillating tool with blade that cuts both metal and plastic.

Here's the no-hub coupler you need if you don't want to go into the wall. Fernco 3000-215... and a link to HD:

1-1/2 in. x 2 in. EPDM Rubber Shielded Coupling-P3000-215 - The Home Depot

You should find this coupler no problem, if not the mission equivalent is #CP-215
 
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Old 07-24-17, 09:17 PM
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Ohhhhh lol

I went ahead and plumbed the whole thing before i came back here.

I will go by Home depot and see if they have the coupler.

So basically i just saw off the white pipe again at the ABS flange but would i need to bore out the pvc?

Im afraid that if i bore out the flange again it might make it weaker when i tighten the coupling, or even worse over bore through the side by accident.

also the inside will be smoother if i leave the pvc in?

So after i get the coupler, I can just use PVC on the smaller end right?

Thanks again Handyone.

BTW the video ad on the page keeps loading the page, i can barely type without a 5 second delay...
 
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Old 07-25-17, 11:28 AM
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So I'm at the local Home Depot now, and I realized what you said now after making a dry fit model out of the store stock.

So either way I'm going to need to bore out the pvc and cement a 2" ABS pipe in order for the no hub coupler to fit on the 2" side. I thought the Coupler will conveniently fit over the flange.

I also realized that Home Depot only carries PVC pipes so I never imagened of there being 2 different pipe.

.
 
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Old 07-25-17, 11:48 AM
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Old 07-25-17, 12:36 PM
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Thanks ray,

I went to lowes, homedepot, and ferguson and they all don't carry ABS pipes lol.

So yes I ended up getting the transition green cement and the coupler.
 
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Old 07-31-17, 12:18 AM
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So...

after I got the transition glue, I looked at the ingredients to see how its different from PVC and ABS cements. I was expecting to find some different resin that bonds both different pipes together, but it literally had the same ingredients as the PVC cement.

Confused, I took a pretty good twist at the connection to see if it will crack or break off but it seems like the PVC cement has hardend up pretty good.

I also wanted to avoid boring out the flange again with the socket saver at all cost since I almost bored out through the side of the flange the first attempt.
(The socket saver uses the stuck pipe as the guide and once you get to the end your basically free handing the drill since theres no pipe the guide can hold on to)
So I ended up leaving the connection as is for now, setup the sink, faucet, disposer and drain and made sure there were no leaks and its holding up pretty good.

Thanks all for the help. guys!
 
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Old 07-31-17, 01:05 AM
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When I occasionally did plumbing I never even knew about green Oatly. Just used universal cement or PVC cement, whatever was on my truck, and never had a call back. Didn't do it often. Seldom even saw ABS except in very old houses or mobile homes, mobile homes being the most common place. Here though I answer according to industry guidelines so I didn't mention, just try PVC and PVC cement and see if it holds because I couldn't guarantee.

Glad it seems to be working for you. Give us an update in a year.
 
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