Leak - How to Fix

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Old 11-15-17, 07:00 PM
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Leak - How to Fix

Hi. This plumbing feeds my pool lever. The 90 degree fitting is leaking. I was just going to cut it out but the pipe to the left looks like copper?

How would I fix this.

Thanks!

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Last edited by PJmax; 11-15-17 at 07:37 PM. Reason: added pic from link
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Old 11-15-17, 07:47 PM
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I posted your picture directly. Photobucket is restricting 3rd party hosting from their site.

In the picture below......
1) is a compression fitting with 1/2" copper pipe.
2) short piece of copper pipe with male threaded adapter
3) PVC fitting with 1/2" NP female thread

You should be able to unscrew the locknut(1) on the valve. Then you should be able to unscrew the copper pipe and threaded adapter out of the PVC fitting. It may just need to be resealed where the copper connects to the PVC.

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  #3  
Old 11-15-17, 07:58 PM
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I would cut the pvc midway between #3 and the spigot... (cut #3 in half if needed to spin it off) replace #2 if needed or clean up the threads... and replace #3, adding a short piece to the bottom of #3, and join it to the existing with a coupling.

Use TFE paste on the male copper threads and don't turn the fnpt pvc elbow onto the copper too tight or you will crack it.
 
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Old 11-15-17, 08:01 PM
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The only problem may be finding a matching compression nut/ring for that valve.
 
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Old 11-15-17, 08:03 PM
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Thank you. This site would not let me upload the photo directly for some reason. If I try to reuse the fittings, what do I seal the copper male thread into the female PVC with..Thanks!
 
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Old 11-15-17, 09:26 PM
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Teflon tape would be good.

This may help......... How-to-insert-pictures
 
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Old 11-16-17, 09:42 AM
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Update

Actually, I took it apart. There is no compression fitting. The 90 degree piece looks like every day white PVC, but the pipe has a threaded end and the color is blue. What is this.
 
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Old 11-16-17, 12:00 PM
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It is called a pipe nipple. Home centers and plumbing suppliers carry them in varying lengths with both ends already threaded.
 
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Old 11-16-17, 12:50 PM
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Sorry, another update

Ok. I figured out how they plummed this originally. They used Rainbird threaded irrigation pipe, threads on both sides, used a couple PVC female threaded reducers and put it together. More joints more leaks.

I am wondering if I could put a PVC 1/2 mail fitting on the valve and then do the rest with white PVC, then I would only have one threaded joint. ? Thanks
 
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Old 11-16-17, 02:36 PM
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I know what you mean, the fewer threaded connections the better. But I think you will have to make sure you have enough play in the remaining piping so you can spread things apart in order to put the last PVC joint together.

Maybe you need a union so you can put it together, and that would also allow you to take it apart in the future should the need arise. Iím not good at spatial, but it looks to me like you could put a metal union where that ball valve is, then the ball valve to itsí right, then the PVC MIP adapter connected into the ball valve. More threads, but I believe the PVC unions arenít the best and youíre better off with metal. It looks to me like with that arrangement you could take everything apart thatís in the picture. You could fix a drip after you put it all together if need be (donít think the PVC joints would drip).

Other guys here may see a flaw in the above and may disagree.
 
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Old 11-17-17, 06:14 AM
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Which sealant

Ok, I have the exact parts that were used originally. What sealant do I use for the gray plastic pipe going into the brass valve. And then which sealant for the threaded PVC. I keep reading do not use teflon. Thanks!
 
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Old 11-17-17, 07:32 AM
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Like I said in post #3, use TFE paste. If you read the label, it should specifically say safe on plastics.

https://www.oatey.com/2376695/Product/Harvey-TFE-Paste
 
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Old 11-17-17, 09:57 AM
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Thank you. Do I use TFE paste on the plastic to plastic threads as well as the copper to plastic thread connection points. Thanks!
 
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Old 11-17-17, 10:01 AM
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You use paste on all the male threads.
 
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Old 11-18-17, 07:56 AM
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Dry fit the PVC joints first and consider that they will seat a little deeper after you use the solvent. Donít forget the primer. I have my doubts as to whether you will have enough spring in the piping to get that 90 elbow onto the vertical piping Ė but dry fitting will show whether thatís the case. Hope Iím wrong. Certainly could be. (Iím sure no expert but Iíve done many joints.)

(If there's a problem maybe a repair coupling on the vertical might work. I never used one - but maybe that's the type of coupling XSleeper referred to)
 

Last edited by zoesdad; 11-18-17 at 08:12 AM.
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Old 11-18-17, 08:13 AM
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The pipe nipple would be the last item he would install, since the pipe on the right will flex to the right side.
 
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Old 11-18-17, 08:40 AM
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I can’t picture it – but then again there are many things I can’t picture LOL!

Nipple connects into brass FIP on left and PVC FIP on right. Turn nipple one direction and you tighten into brass FIP but you loosen from PVC FIP at same time. Or turn nipple in opposite direction and you tighten into PVC FIP but loosen from brass FIP at the same time. Maybe I misunderstand.


Oh!! Just thought of something. Maybe that would work with tfe paste, you back out one side to some extent while you tighten the other side to some degree, but you won't get drips becuase the paste maintains a seal even when reversing the turn. Never tried that.
 

Last edited by zoesdad; 11-18-17 at 09:10 AM. Reason: added last sentence
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Old 11-18-17, 09:32 AM
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Yes, That's what I'd do. But it's possible the pvc coupling could slip over the vertical pipe too.
 
 

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