Can't get a plumber to extend pipe for bath spout
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Can't get a plumber to extend pipe for bath spout
I had a plumber to do few jobs, paid $265. To extend the pipe for the bath spout was $55 more. He left to bring torch, and never showed up. Called, text, but no response.
After few days of attempt to contact him, I gave up on him. I called another plumber, he chages $70/hr. He didn't show up, and would not respond. Called 3rd plumber, he charges $65/hr, and he didn't show or respond.
I'm very frustrated. Is extending the pipe by 1/4" too hard? Is this something I can do?
Help....
After few days of attempt to contact him, I gave up on him. I called another plumber, he chages $70/hr. He didn't show up, and would not respond. Called 3rd plumber, he charges $65/hr, and he didn't show or respond.
I'm very frustrated. Is extending the pipe by 1/4" too hard? Is this something I can do?
Help....
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Spout is barely touching the pipe's first thread, so I assume 1/2" extension will be ok. I do not have access to the back side, I just installed new tiles and grouted. Not sure if it's galvanized. I've attached photo.
Is there a short extension that can be screwed on? I've search online, and I could only find ones for the faucets.
Is there a short extension that can be screwed on? I've search online, and I could only find ones for the faucets.
#5
Group Moderator
Awww, what a mess.
It's not terribly difficult to extend the pipe. Start reading or watching videos on how to sweat fittings onto copper pipe. You'll need a propane torch, flux, solder, pipe, fine clean sandpaper and I would get a new threaded fitting for the end of the pipe. You can reuse the old fitting if you want. Use the torch to heat the coupling and remove the nibblet of pipe and threaded fitting from the end. Then you'll sweat on a new, longer piece of pipe and put a threaded fitting on the end.
It's not terribly difficult to extend the pipe. Start reading or watching videos on how to sweat fittings onto copper pipe. You'll need a propane torch, flux, solder, pipe, fine clean sandpaper and I would get a new threaded fitting for the end of the pipe. You can reuse the old fitting if you want. Use the torch to heat the coupling and remove the nibblet of pipe and threaded fitting from the end. Then you'll sweat on a new, longer piece of pipe and put a threaded fitting on the end.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Just watched how to sweat copper fittings. I used to solder circuit boards, and I think I can do this. Gonna give a try. Thanks.
#7
Group Moderator
Since you are dealing with old piping properly cleaning the pipe and fittings is key. Any time I've had trouble soldering pipes it's because I skimped on cleaning. The inside of your fittings and outside of the pipe need to be bright, shiny and clean. After cleaning your parts don't wipe them off with your hand, use a clean cotton rag. Then apply flux and put the pieces together and solder.
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Got it done, last night. I used a cheap $16 torch kit from Lowe's, wire brush and sandpaper to clean inside and out. That 16mm tubing was 1.5" into the 20mm section. So I borrowed 1/4" I needed.
At first, there was a small leak between the 20mm section and the nipple out the wall. I tried just adding more solder all around, but it still leaked. I ended up removing it, and the nipple was only about an inch out the wall (photo). Yuck. Being too close to the wall, it was hard soldering it without removing the tiles. But got it done and it's leak free.
Thank you all for help.
At first, there was a small leak between the 20mm section and the nipple out the wall. I tried just adding more solder all around, but it still leaked. I ended up removing it, and the nipple was only about an inch out the wall (photo). Yuck. Being too close to the wall, it was hard soldering it without removing the tiles. But got it done and it's leak free.
Thank you all for help.
#9
Yeah, copper tubing should be cut with a tubing cutter. That looks like it was cut off with a hack saw.