Questions about water line to Fridge


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Old 04-12-19, 08:14 AM
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Questions about water line to Fridge

I need a new refrigerator and the installers require a new water line. So, a few questions.

1) The existing copper line (as shown in the attached photo) goes up, curves around down, and then under a joist to then go up through the floor. Is there any reason the valve is pointed up? Seems to make more sense to point down to avoid the first loop. If there is no reason, can I rotate the valve? It looks like a compression fitting; could I just loosen it, rotate it, and tighten it?

2) I don't like copper. I am sure it is fine, but I have images of it kinking or breaking. They sell pex and braided steel. Is one significant better than the other? If I can't rotate the valve, will either be able to make that tight turn?

3) I know copper has those big loops to let you move the fridge out, but how about the others? Do you hook the water up and then push the fridge in; or attach the line to the fridge, push it in, and then attach to the water valve?

4) The joists have knockouts for electrical. Could I run the water line though that (instead of having it run under the joist) or is that improper?

Thanks much.
 
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Old 04-12-19, 08:29 AM
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Personally I always use copper, it will never degrade and crack so never have to worry about coming home to a water logged kitchen.

Line goes up through the floor with 3-4 coils about 12-18" in dia so the refrig can be moved in and out with enough flex in the line to accommodate!

Just bend lightly so it wont kink!
 
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Old 04-12-19, 08:33 AM
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1. Pointing up may have allowed them room to put a gentle loop in the copper instead of a smaller radius risking a kink.

2. I doubt you'll find a braided flex line long enough but if you do it's an option. I prefer PEX but 1/2" is the smallest commonly available size so you'll probably have to reduce when you get to the fridge. Best would be to get rid of the shutoff under the floor. Convert to PEX and install a shutoff in the kitchen behind the fridge. Then you can use a flex hose or plastic to the fridge.

3. Generally you can't get behind the fridge to hook up the line once the fridge is in place so you must connect then push the fridge back.

4. What do you mean by joist knock out? I have only seen knock outs in steel items and most floor joists are wood. If there is a hole there use it. Do not run through a hole that also contains an electrical line. If your joists are steel make sure to use a grommet to protect the PEX or whatever tubing you are using.
 
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Old 04-12-19, 09:07 AM
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2) Lowes has 20' braided and 25' pex 1/4". The pex includes a shut off valve.
3) I meant A) Attach to the refrigerator, push the refrigerator in, and then attach to the valve. or B) Attach to refrigerator and valve, and then push refrigerator in. B will require a longer line.
4) The joists are manufactured, with thin waferboard webs between 2x4s at the top and bottom; rather like I beams. They have perforated knockouts in the web intended to run electrical wires. The joist in question does not have any electrical, but could be used for the water line. However that might not be acceptable to code; I don't know.
 
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Old 04-12-19, 10:35 AM
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2. I would never have a refrigerator shutoff valve not immediately behind the fridge. If there is a leak it's a bad time to have to go hunting for where the shutoff is hidden.

3. You can if you leave enough slack in the water line. You don't want someone to pull the fridge out in the future without disconnecting line and rip the line out. Especially bad if the shutoff valve is not right behind the fridge.

4. Yes, you can use those knock outs for the water line. That is what they are for.
 
 

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