Thinking of tackling the basement bathroom this winter and would like some feedback as to what all I'd need to do with the existing rough-in plumbing. It appears that everything I need for a shower, toilet, and vanity is present. Other than cutting a bit of concrete to extend the shower drain out from the (eventual) wall a few inches, it looks like everything is laid out where I need it. I would only need to run the drain for the vanity over to the left and tie into the 2" drain (also the shower drain) then run a vent from both the vanity and shower into the existing 1.5" vent above the flood level of the sink. Is this an accurate assumption? Below is what is currently in place.
And the proposed modifications shown below (just realized I probably need to tie the vanity drain into the main stack since otherwise the shower would have a wet vent). Blue is the new drainage and orange is new venting.
Sounds right to me. Your wall will need to be deep enough to get the vanity drain and shower vent past the main stack, but other than that, looks pretty straightforward.
Good point about the wall thickness. That's fine. No space restrictions on the back side (unfinished storage space). Not sure if you noticed my recent edit...I believe I'd need to tie the vanity into the main stack because otherwise the shower would have a wet vent. Is this an accurate assumption?
Also, just noticed the main stack and toilet rough-in is actually 3" pipe. Not sure if that's an issue.
Presuming it was plumbed correctly originally (no reason to think otherwise), the toilet and shower vent will use the vanity sink vent together. Technically the sink is a wet vent, but it's allowed when it serves the same bathroom group.
So in my opinion, all you need to do is move the shower drain a few inches to where it needs to go. Then add a sanitary tee on the sink drain/vent and extend it over a foot or two into the vanity. Easy peasy!
That would be great if that's the case. The main stack being so close also serves as a vent for the shower and toilet so it seems like what you proposed should be fine. I think the shower drain may actually be in a good spot and I won't have to move it after all.
I'd also like to plumb a drain for a washing machine. The drain farthest to the right is actually 2" coming out of the concrete, so I can easily change the entire length back to 2" to receive the washer drain, then a 1.5" fitting into that from the vanity. Sound good?
It looks like the tub drain is a few inches off and I'm trying to determine if I can avoid digging up concrete. Is it okay to route the drain and tub overflow as follows? The drain in the floor is 5-1/4" off the wall and the tub drain is 8-1/2" off the wall so I basically need to extend the pipe back about 3" to go up to the tub overflow. Seems like this would be fine. Come to think of it, is it even possible to install a standard tub over concrete without either raising the tub upward (on a platform) or chiseling concrete so the drain can sit below the surface?
I am trying to install a disposal under a deep sink. I found a brand that is only 5 15/16" from the bottom of the sink to the horizontal centerline of the outlet. What is the minimum difference from the centerline of the outlet to the horizontal centerline of the drain pipe protruding from the wall so that water runs freely? I had read someplace that 1/2" would be sufficient, but I want to be sure we don't have standing water in disposal. thank youRead More
This last weekend I had a smell in my laundry room. I removed my floor drain cover and water was up to the top ready to breach the drain. I put a hose in the drain to flush and it would take as much water as I could put in it without the level rising. That floor drain is the end of the run before it goes outside to the house trap. Typically I have 6” from water level in the floor drain, to the top.
In the past, I was told that my house trap could back up into my floor drain because of how it was plumbed. I occasionally flush that drain and add Clorox or I get sewer fleas. My garage floor drain, that’s at the same elevation, did not have any backup.
Today I checked and the water level was normal again. I flushed with water and it took all that I put in it. Throughout this issue, I’ve had no drainage issues. I’m wondering if the issue was at the street and not in my home? If it were a restriction, I wouldn’t have been able to add water without the level rising.
About 15 years ago I had about 60’ of my sewer line dug up and replaced, tree roots had clogged it, that line is 7’ deep. We removed the offending tree and added a clean out. That wasn’t 100% of my outside line, but it was most of it. My yard is pool table flat, I don’t think my lines have much slope. These homes were originally septic and later converted to city sewage
Anyone have any explanations of this issue.
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01-07-23, 06:28 PM
