Fixing small leak in piping around pump
#1
08-07-16, 02:38 AM
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Fixing small leak in piping around pump
Trouble Free Pool
Trouble Free Pool
Trouble Free Pool
I have a small leak at where the PVC pipe joins my pump housing. In the photo, I marked the exact spot by leaving a toothpick there (see pic 1). Pic 2 is a close up and pic 3 is my system. The size of the leak is about 2 to 3 drops after an 8 hour run with the pump so it’s by no means significant. Given the small leak, can I just dab some silicone caulk around the the joint. If so will it damage the pump housing? I don’t care about the PVC as if it were ever redone it would be tossed and replaced. If I do nothing, how soon will it be before the leak gets significant? What caused it? Thanks in advance.Small leak in piping around pump
I have a small leak at where the PVC pipe joins my pump housing. In the photo, I marked the exact spot by leaving a toothpick there. The size of the leak is about 2 to 3 drops after an 8 hour run with the pump so it’s by no means significant. Given the small leak, can I just dab some silicone caulk around the the joint. If so will it damage the pump housing? I don’t care about the PVC as if it were ever redone it would be tossed and replaced. If I do nothing, how soon will it be before the leak gets significant? What caused it? Thanks in advance.
Trouble Free Pool
Trouble Free Pool
I have a small leak at where the PVC pipe joins my pump housing. In the photo, I marked the exact spot by leaving a toothpick there (see pic 1). Pic 2 is a close up and pic 3 is my system. The size of the leak is about 2 to 3 drops after an 8 hour run with the pump so it’s by no means significant. Given the small leak, can I just dab some silicone caulk around the the joint. If so will it damage the pump housing? I don’t care about the PVC as if it were ever redone it would be tossed and replaced. If I do nothing, how soon will it be before the leak gets significant? What caused it? Thanks in advance.Small leak in piping around pump
I have a small leak at where the PVC pipe joins my pump housing. In the photo, I marked the exact spot by leaving a toothpick there. The size of the leak is about 2 to 3 drops after an 8 hour run with the pump so it’s by no means significant. Given the small leak, can I just dab some silicone caulk around the the joint. If so will it damage the pump housing? I don’t care about the PVC as if it were ever redone it would be tossed and replaced. If I do nothing, how soon will it be before the leak gets significant? What caused it? Thanks in advance.
#2
08-07-16, 05:46 AM
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Your pictures you where trying to post, just came up with a website about pools that you have to register to view.
Silicone will not stop the leak.
Silicone will not stop the leak.
#3
08-07-16, 10:53 AM
Group Moderator
You can't hotlink to a membership required site.
You can post pictures directly here. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
Like Joe said.... silicone won't hold. A two part epoxy may work.
You can post pictures directly here. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
Like Joe said.... silicone won't hold. A two part epoxy may work.
#4
08-07-16, 11:25 AM
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The usual way to repair leaks is to replace the parts. It sounds like in your case you need to replace the fitting that connects the pipe to the pump.
The PVC is easy to cut and easy to glue back together. A repair coupler is used to connect the new pipe to the old.
You can get help on details here.
The PVC is easy to cut and easy to glue back together. A repair coupler is used to connect the new pipe to the old.
You can get help on details here.
#5
08-07-16, 11:25 AM
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PJMax, your site uses the same backend infrastructure as the other one based on my view and comparison of the details. They allow large file uploads. Consistently I have had trouble on this site. Most people use the a phone these days and the file size comes out large. Why not modernize how your site allows uploads to keep up with alternative sites? It's a matter of allowing larger file sizes. Just change the setting.
Update: OK I figured out how to change the size. But why not jsut increase the size allowed for user convenience?
Update: OK I figured out how to change the size. But why not jsut increase the size allowed for user convenience?
#6
08-07-16, 11:31 AM
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Will the expoxy damage the pump structure? I dont care about the PVC pipe. Which brand of expoxy? Thanks again!
#7
08-07-16, 12:47 PM
Group Moderator
There needs to be a limit on picture size to keep the threads uniform. I upload many large pictures to photobucket and hot link them here.
Gorilla makes a good water proof epoxy although once it's set it doesn't really need to be water proof. Loctite and Devcon also make good two part epoxies. Most home improvement and hardware stores carry them.
The epoxy is only a surface repair. It shouldn't be getting into the pump.
Gorilla makes a good water proof epoxy although once it's set it doesn't really need to be water proof. Loctite and Devcon also make good two part epoxies. Most home improvement and hardware stores carry them.
The epoxy is only a surface repair. It shouldn't be getting into the pump.
#8
08-07-16, 04:39 PM
Group Moderator
A photo that's 5'000 x 4'000 pixels is ridiculous for online use and photo resizing is a common requirement among non-photo hosting websites. All you have to do is resize before you upload. Yes, it requires you to poke your finger a few times but... it's easy.
#10
08-07-16, 07:42 PM
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OK here are the pics....
Here are the pics. Figured out how to delta the size.
The third pic is pic 1 (with toothpick as a marker as to are of leakage) FYI. Thanks in advance folks!
#11
08-07-16, 08:45 PM
Group Moderator
I service several pools including my own so I have a bucket of 2" PVC pool fittings. If the leak is where I've pointed to in orange..... it's at the threaded connection to the pump. Actually a common leak point.
Forget about the epoxy.
Take a hack saw and cut at the red line. Cut down to the 2" stub of pipe. Use two flat head screw drivers to split the fitting. The fitting will open breaking the glue joint. Replace that right angle fitting and the one that screws into the pump. When you replace the pump fitting... use some Teflon tape on the threads. The two fittings, a short piece of 2" PVC pipe for reconnecting the two elbows and the glue should run less than $20.
Forget about the epoxy.
Take a hack saw and cut at the red line. Cut down to the 2" stub of pipe. Use two flat head screw drivers to split the fitting. The fitting will open breaking the glue joint. Replace that right angle fitting and the one that screws into the pump. When you replace the pump fitting... use some Teflon tape on the threads. The two fittings, a short piece of 2" PVC pipe for reconnecting the two elbows and the glue should run less than $20.
#12
08-07-16, 10:50 PM
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Yes, the orange arrow points to the leak area. So you are saying cut at the red line exactly the way you have drawn it and then split the PVC. Because of this the pipe end will remain intact. Then I can unscrew the pump end?
I checked again. After running for 8 plus hours the amount of water is minute. Less than what you would find on top of a soda can if you pulled it out of your refrigerator. I ran my fingers along the ride of where the PVC joins the pump and felt the slight wetness. I will fix the leak but I am curious if I leave it be am I damaging any equipment? And could it one day if I am not home explode into an emergency?
Your knowledge if extremely valuable to me. Thanks in advance again.
I checked again. After running for 8 plus hours the amount of water is minute. Less than what you would find on top of a soda can if you pulled it out of your refrigerator. I ran my fingers along the ride of where the PVC joins the pump and felt the slight wetness. I will fix the leak but I am curious if I leave it be am I damaging any equipment? And could it one day if I am not home explode into an emergency?
Your knowledge if extremely valuable to me. Thanks in advance again.
#13
08-08-16, 12:55 AM
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No.... the leak isn't damaging anything. That fitting may not have been tightened up enough originally or vibration has loosened it.
#14
08-08-16, 06:58 PM
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I think my pool cleaner used a rock to open the lid on the filter instead of a tool. And the jarring of the structure loosed it. That's my guess.
Anyway, I checked again and it looks like a teardrop or two of water after 8 plus hours. Will monitor it. Just for future reference can you recommend specific brands of PVC glue etc. and other materials to use? I have head of something called Pool Tite? What kind of hacksaw blade do I need or any will do?
Anyway, I checked again and it looks like a teardrop or two of water after 8 plus hours. Will monitor it. Just for future reference can you recommend specific brands of PVC glue etc. and other materials to use? I have head of something called Pool Tite? What kind of hacksaw blade do I need or any will do?
#15
08-08-16, 07:32 PM
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In that location that leak is not causing any problems. I wouldn't mess with it unless it got worse.
Any standards hacksaw blade will work. The PVC is fairly soft.
I pretty much use regular primer and PVC cement. That Pool Tite looks like pretty good stuff.
If you had that blue glue on that fitting it may not split like it would with regular glue.
Pool_Tite_cement/youtube.com/watch?v=McUyY6iBdLQ
The fittings I buy in bulk at a local pool supply store. They have boxes of every type of fitting available.
Any standards hacksaw blade will work. The PVC is fairly soft.
I pretty much use regular primer and PVC cement. That Pool Tite looks like pretty good stuff.
If you had that blue glue on that fitting it may not split like it would with regular glue.
Pool_Tite_cement/youtube.com/watch?v=McUyY6iBdLQ
The fittings I buy in bulk at a local pool supply store. They have boxes of every type of fitting available.
#17
08-14-16, 09:58 PM
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Folks, it seems the leak is getting marginally worse. Shorter duration producing more water. I'm confused on some of the parts I need. It seems from the pump end I need to start with this part: Charlotte Pipe 2 in. PVC Sch. 40 90-Degree MPT x S Street Elbow-PVC 02306 1600HD - The Home Depot
But what I don't get is how this fits next with a 90 degree elbow as they would have the same 2 inch diameter?
But what I don't get is how this fits next with a 90 degree elbow as they would have the same 2 inch diameter?
#18
08-15-16, 12:38 AM
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I posted this back in post # 11 ..................
The two fittings, a short piece of 2" PVC pipe for reconnecting the two elbows and the glue should run less than $20.
#19
08-15-16, 10:50 AM
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I know you did. Thanks. But I'm about to buy/order the parts and looking at it carefully the threaded one starting from the pump obviously needs to be cemented to another elbow without threads. My question is both are two inch diameter so how would they fit in each other? Or is the threaded one on the non threaded end actually designed to fit into the next elbow? Its a question of fit.
#20
08-16-16, 09:43 AM
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and... if you notice the fitting connected to the pump has threads showing. In looking at fittings online and thinking about this, shouldn't the fitting be screwed in all the way so that no threads are showing? It seems to get the proper height to match the other piping, the previous installer opted to focus on the height and therefore not completely screw in the fitting -- hence the exposed threads. It seems this caused a leak before and all the brown stuff around was used as an attempt to seal if from the exterior.
If there are any experts let me know. I have never examined the threads on the pump side before so dont know how deep they go down. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
If there are any experts let me know. I have never examined the threads on the pump side before so dont know how deep they go down. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
#21
08-16-16, 09:55 AM
Group Moderator
You are overthinking the process here. You are working with PVC..... plastic which has give to it.
Threaded fittings used in water connections are tapered. As you screw them in they get tight.
Rarely are the threads completely gone on a fitting.
When you install a threaded fitting.... it's a common problem when tightening the fitting to find out it's tight and won't turn to where you want it. That requires tightening to the point of breaking or backing off one turn.
Threaded fittings used in water connections are tapered. As you screw them in they get tight.
Rarely are the threads completely gone on a fitting.
When you install a threaded fitting.... it's a common problem when tightening the fitting to find out it's tight and won't turn to where you want it. That requires tightening to the point of breaking or backing off one turn.
#22
08-16-16, 08:18 PM
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yes, i am. its my first time doing any plumbing (other than installing a shower head or a faucet). More questions:
1) Should I use PVC primer before the cement? If yes, do I leave the primer wet then cement?
2) If you look at my photos again, you will notice the previous person working on the system painted the PVC pipes with black paint (for protection from the sun I assume). If I cut and intend to connect over a an area of pipe with the paint, wont the bond from the cement be weak? Also if previously painted surfaces are a potential problem, there seems to be no suitable area to cut as most of the existing setup is painted. What to do?
1) Should I use PVC primer before the cement? If yes, do I leave the primer wet then cement?
2) If you look at my photos again, you will notice the previous person working on the system painted the PVC pipes with black paint (for protection from the sun I assume). If I cut and intend to connect over a an area of pipe with the paint, wont the bond from the cement be weak? Also if previously painted surfaces are a potential problem, there seems to be no suitable area to cut as most of the existing setup is painted. What to do?
#23
08-16-16, 08:48 PM
Group Moderator
If you use the glue you linked to..... I don't think primer is needed.
If you use regular PVC glue then use a primer.
The primer gets put on and dries rapidly. It basically cleans the pipe. It can be allowed to dry completely before gluing the parts together. Doesn't matter if it's wet or dry.
Paint doesn't stick well to PVC pipe. It can be sanded off easily with sandpaper or even scraped with a sharp knife.
If you use regular PVC glue then use a primer.
The primer gets put on and dries rapidly. It basically cleans the pipe. It can be allowed to dry completely before gluing the parts together. Doesn't matter if it's wet or dry.
Paint doesn't stick well to PVC pipe. It can be sanded off easily with sandpaper or even scraped with a sharp knife.
#24
08-17-16, 09:05 AM
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If I got some fine sandpaper and took the paint off, then primer that section before gluing is seems would be the least risky? Sorry, just dont want to make any mistakes and redo.
#25
08-19-16, 07:50 AM
Member
Why not try A&B Epoxy Putty....or JBWeld......before you attempt repairs. I have used both on pool PVC and had excellent results.
#26
08-19-16, 09:05 AM
Group Moderator
In this case.... it doesn't appear to be a hole in the pipe. Since it's leaking at a threaded connection.... if you seal one place it will just leak on the back of the fitting.
#27
08-19-16, 10:20 AM
Member
Not necessarily, PJ.....you can mold both A&B and JBW.... in and around, over and under threads into one large watertight clump. Does not look good, but this is a DIY forum, and who looks in the pool equipment room, anyway. (Except DW.)
