have an old Anthony gunite/plaster pool. So 2 seasons ago, suddenly during the season, the pump seemed to be sucking in air. the strainer basket would get only half full of water, the pressure on the filter essentially non-existent. it was flowing water, but the pressure out of returns was low and suction low. The pool was leaking badly and needed complete renovation of the beam/ coping. It was started last season and finished this season. So when started pump, same issue. there doesn't appear to be any water leakage as I think I only added about an inch of water since it was opened in July. I have a one -way valve right before suction line enters pump, And the pump is always primed when I start it up. If I had a leak in the suction line, I would suspect I would lose prime. The pump doesn't have a continuous tone when running. It sounds like speeding up then slowing down-like it just sucked in some air. and no pressure on filter. But my pool has been clean all season. no algae buildup, no DE in the pool (holes in filter panels would account for low pressure but not the low flow/suction coming from returns) some details. I have super II pump about 10 years old. threre is 2" suction line coming in. I have two skimmers. One has never worked since we bought the house. I have always left the plug in it. It is skimmer only. The other skimmer is combined skimmer/main drain. But many years ago I diagnosed a leak in the flex pipe running from the skimmer down to main drain. I left bottom plug in the skimmer (blocking the hole to drain, but the line from skimmer to the pump is still fully open). I also plugged the main drain (using scuba equipment) That solved the leak and the pump ran fine at that time, even though water only coming from the (I think)) 1" line from the one skimmer. then this problem happened suddenly mid season. I mention this cause I have read elsewhere that closing the inlet valve to limit amount of water available to pump can mimic the symptoms I have. so while not due to only having one skimmer functional (since it has worked fine with only 1 skimmer in past), could a blockage in the one skimmer line be limiting flow that pump can't get enough water? SEveral years ago the lines were leak tested. none were found. the shell was the leak and that is now fixed. I have pulled pump apart to check impeller for debris or any obvious problems, but found none. I sprayed suds around one way valve and pipe coming into pump, as well as the pump/cover itself but didn't find anything., Lid O ring good and lubed up and lid tight. if the pump seal were bad, wouldn't I expect to see water leaking from bottom of pump? any thought appreciated. leak detection company has min $675! And I'm not sure I have leak since not adding water and always primed. pump seal? obstruction in an already compromised system using only 1 skimmer? oh, forgot to mention that there is steady stream of air bubbles coming from return lines and when open the outlet on top of filter, water doesn't even come out-I guess draining out into return line too fast to build up any pressure. I even blew air hose to make sure DE not blocking things up.

Hello friends,I am desperate for some non-biased advice/wisdom about how to manage the chemicals in my hot tub. I recently purchased this, which is also known as the 'bahama' or the 'antigua' depending upon the company selling it.[URL]https://www.wayfair.com/outdoor/pdp/lifesmart-spas-retreat-dlx-5-person-28-jet-plug-and-play-hot-tub-with-waterfall-and-ozone-system-kbkg1007.html[/URL] So.. it seems that most of the hot tub savvy humans recommend Bromine over Chlorine for small hot-tubs, for more stability and less maintenance, and less risk of caustic chemical skin/eye irritation. However, my manufacturing company booklet states i should maintain a 3-5ppm of Bromine, whereas the interwebs advice has stated that with an ozonator, there should be a 1-3ppm level maintained. Additionally, my booklet states i should never use a tablet/floater, but i get the impression that this is because they don't want to increase the likelihood of my cover/shell deteriorating more quickly by breaking down from trapped/marinating chemical fumes(and therefore a use of their warranty to obtain a new one). In following the directions of my chemical kit, i have yet to achieve a bromine level above 1. Even after adding more, and then using a floater (against the booklet's advice). After 5 days there is no evidence of problematic bacteria (what i was told is to look for skin rashes, smells, water discoloration, and film on top. Also all other levels tested (ph, etc.) have been within correct ranges. So my question is: Do i really need a 3-5ppm bromine level? And if so, how can i achieve this, when i already followed the instructions (and then some) for bromine addition, and still have been unable to reach those levels.