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Re-shingle valley Q's; underlayment & matching old standard size shingles

Re-shingle valley Q's; underlayment & matching old standard size shingles

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  #1  
Old 03-21-19, 02:11 PM
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Re-shingle valley Q's; underlayment & matching old standard size shingles

Hello,

Last month, I received some helpful answers to my question about fixing my roof leak (for reference, this was the thread https://www.doityourself.com/forum/r...ml#post2757073 ).

I've attempted to stop the leak with roof sealant, but the problem persists, so I think that I need to "bite the bullet" and redo the entire valley. I'd love to hire someone, but I don't have the budget for that.

I believe that there is ice & water shield on, at least part of the valley, but it does not extend onto the roof that the valley dumps into. So, I'm going to put down another layer of ice&water shield. Questions:
  1. Should I use granular or smooth surface ice&water shield for the valley?
  2. Do you have any suggestions or tips on how to match existing standard sized architectural shingles with the new, larger, metric format? I can align the bottom of the new with the old, but the top of the key from the new shingle ends up under the bottom of the shingle above, creating a void. I'm worried that can lead to problems.

Thanks, in advance, for your help.
 
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Old 03-21-19, 03:10 PM
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1. If you are just doing the valley and the shingles will be going over the ice & water shield I would use the smooth. If you have a steep pitch and are concerned about sliding off the roof while working I would get the granular covered.

2. I don't know where you are located or what shingles you are using but the architectural shingles I put on my house 18 years ago are still available in the same size. Shingles are a regional product so if your region only has metric check other areas to see if they come in imperial dimensions though you'd have to pay for shipping or make the drive.
 
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Old 03-21-19, 03:32 PM
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I think I gave all the directions you needed in your thread about 3 years ago if you can find it.

Unless you want to reroof it all, about all you can do is lap the shingles farther. I wouldn't recommend cutting the bottom edge of the shingle shorter but you could.

I'm quite sure most of your problems are due to the fact that you aren't tearing off enough, aren't getting your ice and water shield stuck down to clean sheathing, and aren't lapping the ice and water shield enough at any seams or transitions.
 
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Old 03-21-19, 09:16 PM
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Thanks @Pilot Dane and @XSleeper

Pilot Dane, I like your idea about checking other regions. I did try to contact Certainteed (the manufacturer of the existing shingles) directly, but received no reply. I'll see if I can come up with a different angle.

XSleeper, I did find the old thread that you referred to from 9/14/2016 (ref: https://www.doityourself.com/forum/r...oof-lines.html ). That was when I was working on the North side of that hip roof that forms the valley. Now I'm on the South side. I remembered what you said about the step flashing and, I believe, I followed those recommendations--including the generous use of Geocel at the top edge. For the North side, I was able to get away with patching in underlayment and replacing just the shingles where the roofline meets the sidewall. No leaks yet. I haven't been as lucky with the South side though.

For the areas I have already patched using metric format shingles, I think I did the best I could with lapping the shingles. I haven't been comfortable/confident in that though, so I continue to look for other suggestions. I did make several attempts to cut the bottom edge, but none came out crisp enough. Also, until Pilot Dane's answer, I didn't know where granular vs. smooth ice& water is preferred.
 
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Old 03-21-19, 09:19 PM
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That's it. It was 2016......
 
 

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