"Sleeper" OSB subfloor with pine T&G over concrete?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
"Sleeper" OSB subfloor with pine T&G over concrete?
Separated from http://www.doityourself.com/forum/so...-subfloor.html
If you don't mind, what was the results of this? I am having to do a similar type of operation.
I have existing flooring that was installed like this and it sits at 1.5" above my concrete slab. I am extending the floor through my kitchen so I need to raise the flooring to the level. The Pine T&G flooring I ordered has a thickness of 3/4" so I need an extra 3/4". How did you end up doing your floors?
If you don't mind, what was the results of this? I am having to do a similar type of operation.
I have existing flooring that was installed like this and it sits at 1.5" above my concrete slab. I am extending the floor through my kitchen so I need to raise the flooring to the level. The Pine T&G flooring I ordered has a thickness of 3/4" so I need an extra 3/4". How did you end up doing your floors?
Last edited by stickshift; 02-24-16 at 08:22 AM.
#2
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
"Sleeper" OSB subfloor with pine T&G over concrete?
So I am attempting to extend the flooring in my livingroom throughout the kitchen. The issue I am faced with is that the existing flooring sits at 1.5" above the slab so I need to install the new flooring at the same level.
My plan:
Install 7/16 or 3/4 osb over a vapor barrier, install my cabinets to the osb "sleeper subfloor" then install the 3/4" pine T&G flooring to the osb. I've read that using two layers of OSB in perpendicular layouts is perferred, but I don't know if I can pull that off since nobody sells osb smaller than 7/16" in my area.
Anyways, what are the suggestions for this? Besides ripping up my livingroom floor and starting fresh...
My plan:
Install 7/16 or 3/4 osb over a vapor barrier, install my cabinets to the osb "sleeper subfloor" then install the 3/4" pine T&G flooring to the osb. I've read that using two layers of OSB in perpendicular layouts is perferred, but I don't know if I can pull that off since nobody sells osb smaller than 7/16" in my area.
Anyways, what are the suggestions for this? Besides ripping up my livingroom floor and starting fresh...
#3
Group Moderator
3/4" of Advantech sounds like a good idea to me.
Highest Quality of any Flooring Plywood & OSB Sheathing Product | Huber Engineered Woods
Highest Quality of any Flooring Plywood & OSB Sheathing Product | Huber Engineered Woods
#4
Do you have a cross section of what you currently have? To me, it is a recipe for an unstable floor. It would make more sense to remove the sleeper system and install an engineered floating floor over your slab. Pictures would help.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
#5
You also want your cabinets installed at finished floor height, not subfloor height, so you would raise their footprint to the finished floor height with an additional layer of 3/4" ply.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I'll try to post a cross section later, need to remove some things to get that view.
Just curious why you think it is necessary to have the cabinets at finish floor height?
I only ask because if I was to be putting down wood flooring the standard method I'd likely set the cabinets on the concrete/vapor barrier and then install my flooring around the cabinets.
The cabinets I removed are sitting on the concrete (no vapor barrier) and then they were tiled around them.
Thanks for the help guys, I will take all of this advice as I work my way towards this goal. Today I am pulling out my soffit ceiling so I have a while before floors.
Just curious why you think it is necessary to have the cabinets at finish floor height?
I only ask because if I was to be putting down wood flooring the standard method I'd likely set the cabinets on the concrete/vapor barrier and then install my flooring around the cabinets.
The cabinets I removed are sitting on the concrete (no vapor barrier) and then they were tiled around them.
Thanks for the help guys, I will take all of this advice as I work my way towards this goal. Today I am pulling out my soffit ceiling so I have a while before floors.
#7
The main reason is so that a dishwasher will fit under the countertop. You will also have the full 4" of toe kick, not 3 1/4.