Hi guys,

I have a pergo engineered wood flooring installed with the floating method.

Ive tried using the laminate style T moulding kit on the transition from engineered floor to kitchen tile which had an even height but it ended up popping out (glue couldnt hold on to the metal rail) so im thinking of using a solid wood this time.

Ive read on the forum that on a "solid" wood flooring to tile transition, you only glue the tile end of the T-moulding and not glue the wood flooring so the wood flooring can expand, I am planning on doing that to transition to the kitchen tile, but what happens if the wood flooring is higher than the tile by 1/8"? Its too small of a height difference to use a reducer or the other transition strips.

The tile on the fire place is about 1/8" lower than the engineered wood.
Ive read somewhere that a slight difference doesnt affect the Tmoulding but it definitely will not be flush on the wood floor side. Do i glue a Popsicle stick on the tile side of the Tmoulding and glue that to the tile? I've also read i can shave the wood flooring side of the Tmoulding but I dont think i have the tools to shave a t moulding that accurately.

The subfloor is concrete btw.

Thanks guys

 

I use a product called Chemrex, it is available in carpet supply stores, and online. (name may have changed but I can't remember)

Chemrex - Adhesives

It is used to glue carpet tack strips to concrete and works great on t moldings. Use it on the concrete and set the Leg part of the t molding into it. Don't let it impede the expansion needs of the engineered flooring. You dispense from the tube, mist it will water to activate, set your molding, put a weight on the molding for 2 hours and you are done. Go0d luck.

Edit, you will need a crow bar to remove the molding after this stuff sets up.

 

Great I'll order it now.

So do I go with the laminate t-moulding kit?

The solid wood t moulding's bottom part barely reaches the concrete subfloor.

Thanks!

 

You need to use a transition T with the metal channel which is screwed to the floor and the T snaps in.

 

He has already tried to use the metal rail kits with the laminate t molding. He is trying to do plan B.

 

You don't need full contact the subfloor with Chemrex you just need contact between the cement and the molding. It is very thick, sets up very hard, and holds very well. Thick dabs is all you need.

 

Thanks for the helpful reply czizzi I got the chemrex coming but I still need to figure out the small level difference at the fireplace.
Which should I go with and do I just put a dollop right in the middle space for all methods? Also this transition will have the 2 45 degree turns.

 

Cut the tar paper back and go with door #3 since it will allow your flooring to expand and contract under the lip. Yes, just a few dollops along the run, at the corners and along the sides should do it.

 

Thanks for the quick reply chandler!

Just to be extra sure, door #3 has a considerable gap between the concrete subfloor and the bottom of the threshold, do i just dollop enough to fill that gap i guess and the adhesive will fill the gap?

 

Yes, use enough to touch the two surfaces and allow a little squish. It will hold steadfastly (is that a word?)

 

ok great, makes perfect sense lol.