Need advice for finishing faucet/tub project
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Need advice for finishing faucet/tub project
My Father-in-law and I renovated a tub/shower combo at my house.
I'm very new to the DIY-projects, and continue to learn lots of lessons.
I'm a little lost on what I should do to finish this project. It appears now that we've finished the wall with tile, the push/pull Moen faucet doesn't fit anymore like it did (it appears "in" the wall now, like the tile is thicker compared to previously).
What could I do here? Any help is appreciated.
I'm very new to the DIY-projects, and continue to learn lots of lessons.
I'm a little lost on what I should do to finish this project. It appears now that we've finished the wall with tile, the push/pull Moen faucet doesn't fit anymore like it did (it appears "in" the wall now, like the tile is thicker compared to previously).
What could I do here? Any help is appreciated.
#2
Welcome to the forums! Without seeing what you see, we are flying blind. Can you post a few pictures (not closeups) of your project? Did you use the factory tile spacing blank when you installed the shower control valve? http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
#3
Group Moderator
Can you post a picture of the problem area? Did you tile around the faucet escutcheon without removing the escutcheon?
#5
Group Moderator
The pipe nipple for the tub spout can be unscrewed and replaced with a longer one. The faucet may be more difficult. Have you tried installing your escutcheon? There is some adjustment built in but you may be beyond. In that case the faucet body will need to be moved closer to the face of your finished shower wall.
What is on the other side of the wall where your faucet is located? Hopefully it's a closet but usually it's easiest to cut through the wall on the back side so you can move the valve body. Then you repair the sheetrock and repaint.
What is on the other side of the wall where your faucet is located? Hopefully it's a closet but usually it's easiest to cut through the wall on the back side so you can move the valve body. Then you repair the sheetrock and repaint.
#6
If you remember how the valve and spout were connected, say on a 2x4, etc. then opening up the back wall will give access and you can cut the fasteners off the sides of the support, move it in and refasten it at the proper depth, as Dane suggested.
Of concern is the diameter of the hole. Will your plate fit flush to the tile with this small a hole? I hope you never encounter a leak as putting tile on sheetrock is a recipe for disaster, but that is a different problem.
Of concern is the diameter of the hole. Will your plate fit flush to the tile with this small a hole? I hope you never encounter a leak as putting tile on sheetrock is a recipe for disaster, but that is a different problem.
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I appreciate the help from everyone. After doing some more research, the Moen escutcheon set up I had was concave into the wall. So after purchasing an angle grinder/diamond blade I cut the hole larger and the problem is solved.
I am very grateful it did not crack anywhere. Besides dust (everywhere) the process was fairly painless and straightforward.
We used greenboard (recommended by a contractor), but we did use a waterproofing agent. Like I mentioned...I'm a newbie, but eager to learn. As I move on to the other bathroooms in the house would you recommend hardibacker for the walls?
I am very grateful it did not crack anywhere. Besides dust (everywhere) the process was fairly painless and straightforward.
We used greenboard (recommended by a contractor), but we did use a waterproofing agent. Like I mentioned...I'm a newbie, but eager to learn. As I move on to the other bathroooms in the house would you recommend hardibacker for the walls?
#8
Use 1/2" Durock or Hardiebacker for the walls. Your recommendation from the contractor was old school as greenboard is not an approved wet area backer. Using RedGard as a solid paint on the walls may have helped, but very expensive for such an application where Durock would have sufficed at a lower cost and a lower possibility of deteriorating.
Glad you got the shower working !!
Glad you got the shower working !!