Hanging wall vanity installation
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Hanging wall vanity installation
I did a bit of research first and then went to install a friend's 36" wide hanging wall vanity only to discover it came with no (that's zero) mounting hardware, and the instructions consist of a single piece of paper telling the consumer to screw the back of the vanity into some wall studs.
The vanity and sink together are fairly heavy, so what is the best way to approach this? I was thinking of screwing a 2x4 or some punched angle iron into the wall to take the brunt of the vanity's weight - if centered on the wall I can access 2 studs for this purpose. Then screw through the vanity directly into the studs with maybe 4 screws (what would be the ideal screw type for that?).
Will this be enough to support the vanity, if not what is a better way to do this. Any suggestions would be extremely helpful and appreciated, thanks.
The vanity and sink together are fairly heavy, so what is the best way to approach this? I was thinking of screwing a 2x4 or some punched angle iron into the wall to take the brunt of the vanity's weight - if centered on the wall I can access 2 studs for this purpose. Then screw through the vanity directly into the studs with maybe 4 screws (what would be the ideal screw type for that?).
Will this be enough to support the vanity, if not what is a better way to do this. Any suggestions would be extremely helpful and appreciated, thanks.
#2
Group Moderator
Your plan sounds like a good one. For going through the back of the cabinet into the wall I use 3" long deck screws with a flat washer under the head or structural wood screws which have a flat, washer like base to the screw head.
#3
I would open the wall, insert continuous blocking at the attachment rail height so you have lots of area to screw the vanity off.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
That would be ideal but I just finished installing new gyproc and finishing the wall, I don't think I could bring myself to tear it out again for blocking. Original plan was for a standing vanity. Perhaps I can use a couple of high weight drywall anchors to add some additional support?
#5
Drywall anchors will do nothing if someone decides to sit on the vanity. Sometimes it is best to take a couple of steps back in order to do it the right way. Depending on the stud placement, you may be able to open up the wall and have the hole completely covered by the vanity so little finish work is needed.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
I know you're right of course, I just want this bathroom remodel to be over! 2 studs would be completely covered by the vanity, the 3rd stud on the right extends past the vanity about 6 inches so would need to finish that area. I think I'll take a small break from the project and then come back to it a little refreshed. Thanks guys!
#7
Group Moderator
Depending on how much the vanity covers that last stud bay, you may be able to cut the drywall behind the vanity and still slide your blocking in place so the exposed drywall remains undamaged.
#9
The difference between us is that I don't and never have hesitated to open up a wall and close it up again. For you it would be great experience in your drywall knife skills. For me, its all in a days work.
Use a setting type joint compound to cut down on dry time. Use a hair dryer to speed things up after initial set up of the compound. Thin, thin coats with minimal sanding. Put compound on, CLEAN YOUR KNIFE, and then pull it hard cross the patch bending your knife as you go so that it is really thin away from the tape and thicker at the tape. Do the same on the other side except bend the knife in the opposite direction. Important to completely clean the knife after each pass. You should now have a small hump in the middle with really thing feathered edges. Final pass is across the middle with the blade flat and a light touch. All final feathering done with a 12" knife. Work quickly as the compound will set up relatively fast in your pan. Make small batches in your pan and clean up immediately.
Use a setting type joint compound to cut down on dry time. Use a hair dryer to speed things up after initial set up of the compound. Thin, thin coats with minimal sanding. Put compound on, CLEAN YOUR KNIFE, and then pull it hard cross the patch bending your knife as you go so that it is really thin away from the tape and thicker at the tape. Do the same on the other side except bend the knife in the opposite direction. Important to completely clean the knife after each pass. You should now have a small hump in the middle with really thing feathered edges. Final pass is across the middle with the blade flat and a light touch. All final feathering done with a 12" knife. Work quickly as the compound will set up relatively fast in your pan. Make small batches in your pan and clean up immediately.
#10
I think you're OK using truss head screws into 2 studs and using the angle bracket ledger.
If there is an area that you feel an additional anchor is needed I would recommend this anchor:
WingIts World's Strongest Fastener Super Duty (6-Anchors)-RC-MAWSD35-6 - The Home Depot
The anchor is rated for 300lbs and the screw can be removed and reinserted.
If there is an area that you feel an additional anchor is needed I would recommend this anchor:
WingIts World's Strongest Fastener Super Duty (6-Anchors)-RC-MAWSD35-6 - The Home Depot
The anchor is rated for 300lbs and the screw can be removed and reinserted.
#11
How about adding a ledge below for the vanity to sit on? good place for a piece of angle iron or a 2"x2". It should be fairly hidden under the cabinet against the wall. This together with going through the back into two studs should be pretty strong. Still concerned about sitting on the front edge with no front support but otherwise should be fine.
- Peter
- Peter
#12
Member
Thread Starter
Meant to update this thread sooner...
I did open up the wall and added the necessary blocking between studs to screw the vanity into, and also replaced the drywall but did not finish it as the vanity completely covered the patch (and I'm a bit lazy!). I also added a piece of 2x2 as a support rail hidden underneath the vanity and now this thing is solid! Thanks again everyone for all the suggestions.
I did open up the wall and added the necessary blocking between studs to screw the vanity into, and also replaced the drywall but did not finish it as the vanity completely covered the patch (and I'm a bit lazy!). I also added a piece of 2x2 as a support rail hidden underneath the vanity and now this thing is solid! Thanks again everyone for all the suggestions.