Replacing tub and shower valve assembly
#1
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Replacing tub and shower valve assembly
I need to replace a tub and shower valve assembly in my bathroom (the tub faucet keeps dripping and it seems to be impossible to just repair it). I'm wondering what would be the reasonable price for this job. It involves, of course, opening up the wall behind it... I just got an estimate from a plumber that is way more expensive than what I had expected. Any ballpark figures? Thank you.
#2
Can't really estimate a price. I expect to pay a plumber $160 per hour or more.
A picture would help. Usually the valve stems and washers can be replaced. If you replaced all the washers and the valve still leaks, try seeing if you can replace the valve seats.
Corroded valve seats will let water pass even with new washers. You will need a valve seat wrench and some Teflon pipe dope on the seat threads.
I'm assuming you have a 3 handle valve body.
A picture would help. Usually the valve stems and washers can be replaced. If you replaced all the washers and the valve still leaks, try seeing if you can replace the valve seats.
Corroded valve seats will let water pass even with new washers. You will need a valve seat wrench and some Teflon pipe dope on the seat threads.
I'm assuming you have a 3 handle valve body.
#3
Group Moderator
So much depends on where you are located, your house's construction and what faucet you have now and what you are going to for the new one. Which new faucet you pick could swing the installation labor price several hundred dollars or more.
#5
Looks like a delta... If its old ball style stem I see no reason the assembly/cartridge cannot be changed..
In NJ to change the whole valve from behind runs about $900-1200..
The valve itself is $147 without the trim.. I think trim is another $150....
I would put on a moentrol if I were doing it.. If easy access possible knock it down to $700-$800...
https://www.fergusonshowrooms.com/pr...iAAEgL_N_D_BwE
In NJ to change the whole valve from behind runs about $900-1200..
The valve itself is $147 without the trim.. I think trim is another $150....
I would put on a moentrol if I were doing it.. If easy access possible knock it down to $700-$800...
https://www.fergusonshowrooms.com/pr...iAAEgL_N_D_BwE

#6
That's not what I pictured but you will be happy with a new valve and trim.
You might want to get three bids and maybe cut out the drywall yourself, anything to make their job easier.
This could be a DIY project with just a few tools and then pay to have the drywall repaired.
You might want to get three bids and maybe cut out the drywall yourself, anything to make their job easier.
This could be a DIY project with just a few tools and then pay to have the drywall repaired.
#7
This could be a DIY project with just a few tools and then pay to have the drywall repaired.
#10
Group Moderator
Has the cartridge been replaced in your existing faucet? If not I would certainly try that first.
#11
Here is what I think you have... Watch this video..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaHUMbUZbHk
Repair kit about 20 bucks...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-Re...7738/205166198
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaHUMbUZbHk
Repair kit about 20 bucks...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-Re...7738/205166198
#14
Group Moderator
First, get the repair kit and a new dome nut. You can contact Delta directly to get the parts if you want. But you will want the parts in hand before you take the faucet apart because you will have to turn the water off to the house before beginning work and you have to have the faucet back together before you can turn the water back on.
Start spraying the dome nut with some penetrating oil a day or two before planning work and repeat the application a few times. You really want it to soak into the threads and make it come off easier.
Turn the water off to the house and open a faucet to relieve the pressure. Then with a large pair of channel lock pliers or a pipe wrench try to get the dome nut off. If it doesn't come off remember that you're in for a $800+ repair. If you can get it off you're out less than $40.
If it absolutely will not budge I start cutting it with a cold chisel and hammer. Starting at the outer most part near the faucet handle I work back towards the threaded end. Once the metal is cut about 2-3 back to the threaded end I pry up one side with a flat blade screw driver. Grab the tab with a pair of Vice Grip pliers and pull/twist to tear the metal all the way back like opening a can of soup. Once it's off the replacement of the guts should go quickly and easily.
Oh, and make sure the tub stopper is down or lay a towel over the drain so little parts don't fall down the drain and disappear.
Start spraying the dome nut with some penetrating oil a day or two before planning work and repeat the application a few times. You really want it to soak into the threads and make it come off easier.
Turn the water off to the house and open a faucet to relieve the pressure. Then with a large pair of channel lock pliers or a pipe wrench try to get the dome nut off. If it doesn't come off remember that you're in for a $800+ repair. If you can get it off you're out less than $40.
If it absolutely will not budge I start cutting it with a cold chisel and hammer. Starting at the outer most part near the faucet handle I work back towards the threaded end. Once the metal is cut about 2-3 back to the threaded end I pry up one side with a flat blade screw driver. Grab the tab with a pair of Vice Grip pliers and pull/twist to tear the metal all the way back like opening a can of soup. Once it's off the replacement of the guts should go quickly and easily.
Oh, and make sure the tub stopper is down or lay a towel over the drain so little parts don't fall down the drain and disappear.
#17
Group Moderator