Installing sink off hot water heater
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Installing sink off hot water heater
I am installing a new hot water heater tomorrow. As part of the installation I want to add hookups for a shampoo bowl for SO. The water heater will be around 8 feet from the faucet/shampoo bowl. The faucet will have 3/8" standard water line hookups. I have a drain nearby already.
This is going to be a temporary setup (I don't want all kinds of permanent plumbing that needs to be torn out when I move).
My plan is to have Tees off the 3/4" hot and cold supply line coming out of/going into the water heater. The tee will feed 1/2" copper with a shutoff. Then I need to decide what to do. Since it is 8 feet, it seems hard to find 8 foot 3/8" water lines. Should I use standard garden hoses to go to the 3/8" faucet supply line (not sure about hot water in a garden hose)? Should I use PEX which will be easy to remove? I'm not sure what would be best at the end of the 1/2" copper to eventually get me to 3/8".
This is going to be a temporary setup (I don't want all kinds of permanent plumbing that needs to be torn out when I move).
My plan is to have Tees off the 3/4" hot and cold supply line coming out of/going into the water heater. The tee will feed 1/2" copper with a shutoff. Then I need to decide what to do. Since it is 8 feet, it seems hard to find 8 foot 3/8" water lines. Should I use standard garden hoses to go to the 3/8" faucet supply line (not sure about hot water in a garden hose)? Should I use PEX which will be easy to remove? I'm not sure what would be best at the end of the 1/2" copper to eventually get me to 3/8".
#2
Group Moderator
I'm not certain removing the pluming is required but I'll leave that decision to you. I would make the 8' run with proper 1/2" piping and not bother with trying to find such long 3/8" hook-up lines. In your main line T you can install a quarter turn ball shutoff valve. If you get a threaded valve you can screw a 1/2" fitting into it for your temporary 8' water line. When it's time to move close the shut-off valve. Unscrew your 8' pipe and install a plug in the open end of the valve.
I prefer PEX but it does require a crimping tool. If you've already got the tool I'd go PEX. If you have the torches, solder and flux for sweating copper there's nothing wrong with using it. Heck, since it's temporary you could even used galvanized steel. You can buy the pipe pre-threaded at most plumbing stores and home centers and you wouldn't even have to solder copper.
I prefer PEX but it does require a crimping tool. If you've already got the tool I'd go PEX. If you have the torches, solder and flux for sweating copper there's nothing wrong with using it. Heck, since it's temporary you could even used galvanized steel. You can buy the pipe pre-threaded at most plumbing stores and home centers and you wouldn't even have to solder copper.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
I'm not certain removing the pluming is required but I'll leave that decision to you. I would make the 8' run with proper 1/2" piping and not bother with trying to find such long 3/8" hook-up lines. In your main line T you can install a quarter turn ball shutoff valve. If you get a threaded valve you can screw a 1/2" fitting into it for your temporary 8' water line. When it's time to move close the shut-off valve. Unscrew your 8' pipe and install a plug in the open end of the valve.
I prefer PEX but it does require a crimping tool. If you've already got the tool I'd go PEX. If you have the torches, solder and flux for sweating copper there's nothing wrong with using it. Heck, since it's temporary you could even used galvanized steel. You can buy the pipe pre-threaded at most plumbing stores and home centers and you wouldn't even have to solder copper.
I prefer PEX but it does require a crimping tool. If you've already got the tool I'd go PEX. If you have the torches, solder and flux for sweating copper there's nothing wrong with using it. Heck, since it's temporary you could even used galvanized steel. You can buy the pipe pre-threaded at most plumbing stores and home centers and you wouldn't even have to solder copper.
If I go the PEX route it sounds like tomorrow I just need to put a 1/2" connector on the end with solder on one side and a PEX push on (barb) on the other side.
Since I am talking 4 PEX fittings total, I suppose I could buy the more expensive push on fittings. They have push on a ball valve that goes from copper to PEX.
Last edited by michaeljc70; 12-04-18 at 10:04 AM.