claw foot tub connections

Old 12-02-23, 05:07 PM
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How to bend a riser pipe for a claw foot tub

Dear All, Please can you help me solve three or four problems with drain and riser connections to my vintage claw foot tub.

Standard drain kit.
  • With the overflow pipe perfectly vertical, the flange face at the overflow pipe opening is tilted. The back of the bath slopes down inside at a 5 degree angle. This means that the flange face is flush with the sloping back face of the bath. a flange is flush to the face aligns with the back of the bath.
    Can I use a conical gasket, of uniform thickness all around, at the overflow drain?
  • The bottom of the bath slops from front to back, for draining water out. This means that the underside of the bath, including the protruding section at the main drain are sloped.
    Can I use a tapered gasket at the main drain connection under the bath? This would make the main bath drain pipe horizontal to the right angled T connection, and the overflow drain pipe would be vertical. Otherwise both pipes would be tilted and would look terrible.
  • Is plumbers putty used on all flange faces that contact the bath? i.e. bottom drain piece under the top flange face that contacts the bath, and the back flange of the faucet threaded pipe where it is flush against the back of the bath?
  • Is there any product recommended to apply on rubber seals and gaskets where they contact the bath or drain flanges?
  • Is pipe compound with PTFE recommended to be used on threaded sections where they are screwed? Would it improve the seal to use plumbers tape in addition ?
  • I have Moly EP grease, little containers of heat proof plumbers grease, masters silicone sealant and a a variety of Dap sealant products. Would any of those be useful for the tub connections?
  • Is there any advantage to using plumbers compound on the 1-1/2" chrome pipe where it fits into the plastic pipe under the floor. The plastic pipe has a threaded section at the top with a plastic nut that goes over the chrome pipe and screws onto the plastic pipe.
I have the original chrome risers but they seem to be a bit short in length and one was squashed in moving the claw foot tub inside the house. The new risers are the same style and size, longer, so they go down through the floor. I am reusing the original faucet fixture, a basic hot and cold tap assembly with threaded rods that fit through the two openings above the overflow drain. When the brass nut is screwed on, the flange face is flush with the back of the bath, which slopes downwards. i.e. the threaded pipe sections are at 90 degrees to the back face of the bath.
The original riser bend is tilted so that it aligns with the faucet threaded rods allowing a full contact with rubber seals and the nuts screw on full tight. Everything alighned.
The new riser bend is horizontal where it meets the faucet threaded rod sections, which are tilted at an angle . When the riser is screwed tight onto the end of the threaded rod there are gaps between the brass nut flange and bath. i.e. not full contact. I'm thinking this compromises the seal. Ideally I'd like to tilt the riser bend to align with the faucet threaded rod sections, to ensure full contact at flange faces and provide the best joint seals possible. But How to bend the riser pipe?

Please share any ideas how to tilt the riser bend upwards (about 5 degrees) so that it aligns with the faucet connection to avoid gaps at the seals.

Chrome riser connection under the floor to PEX
I've opened up the space under the floor so I can tighten the drain nut. Also I thought it would be good to make sure the riser pipes are vertical, and when I moved a riser, it simple came out at the connection to the plastic pipe. There is a rubber washer on the bottom of the chrome riser with a nut that comes over it and screws onto the brass connector. The rubber washer is loose in the nut and when I tightened the nut back on the riser slipped out again. There is nothing to keep the riser in the connection. I think I'm missing either a brass ring or a proper rubber stopper.

Water lines under the floor
The water lines are bunched together under the floor where they go up into the bathroom wall. Is there a minimum distance recommended to separate them? I've attached a photo of the lines below the floor and another photo of the lines above the floor before drywalling. This is an external wall but the pipes are in front of the wall, inside a stub wall build to house concealed tank for the toilet, and I put in new insulation in the outside wall.

Thanks a million for reading and sharing information.
All best wishes,

Claw foot tub ready for connections.
Need help.

Original riser bend tilts upwards to align with threaded rods in faucet connection.
The big question is how do I bend the new riser bend to be the same as this?

Chrome riser connection end at PEX under floor consists of a rubber washer and nut

Chrome riser and PEX connection ends.
The question is how to improve this connection so the riser cannot slip out again?

Water lines on end wall above floor in front of external wall, inside stub wall.

hot and cold water lines below floor level
Wondering if water lines need separating so they are apart by a few inches and not on top of each other?

The drain under the bath is sloping.
Do I use a tapered gasket here, so the drain pipe is laid horizontally to T right angle connection, making the upright vertical?

Drain flange face is tilted to be flush with back of bath.
Do I use a conical rubber gasket her, which is uniform thickness, since the flange is aligned with back of bath.

Thanks again,

My claw foot tub, ready to be connected.

Old 12-02-23, 05:45 PM
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claw foot tub connections

Claw foot tub ready for connections. Need ideas how to tilt new riser bend to align with faucet connection threaded rods.

Riser to faucet connection. The back of the bath slopes inwards. The faucet connection has a brass nut. For the flange face to be flush with the back of the bath means that the threaded rods are inclined at an angle. The new riser bend is on the horizontal.

If the Riser bend is screwed onto the faucet connection threaded rods, the brass flange and rods are forced out of alignment.

This is the original riser, which is too short and I only have one of them, the other one was damaged moving the tub into the house. The original riser bend tilts to align with faucet threaded rod. How do I make the new riser bend tilt like this one?

When drain pipe is vertical the drain flange face tilts at an angle. This is the same angle as the back of bath. Use conical rubber gasket with equal thickness all around?

Drain at bottom of bath slopes for bath to self drain. Do I use a tapered rubber gasket here, so the drain pipe is able to be horizontal to the T right angle connection, which makes the upright vertical?

Under floor riser to plastic pipe connection.

Riser under floor connects to plastic pipe. The riser slipped out of the connection when I disturbed the flex part, and I can't see what's to keep it in place. The rubber washer is smaller than the nut, and the riser slips out of the connection easily. Is it a matter of putting a brass ring on or what would be the best solution to create a great leak proof and solid connection?

external wall with stub wall to house concealed toilet tank. New insulation in back wall. Water pipes in stub wall.

Water lines below floor. Do they need to be spaced apart?

Please share any ideas, suggestions, observations and advise on products, i.e. Do I use plumbing putty on the flange faces of connections where they contact the bath, and pipe compound with PTFE on the threads? is it recommended to use any product on the rubber gaskets?

Thanks a million,

Last edited by SunflowerRobert; 12-02-23 at 05:49 PM. Reason: to add a sentence
Old 12-03-23, 02:29 PM
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Sorry for duplication. I can't figure out how to delete the post but wish I could..

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