LVT installation - best practices

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Old 12-03-19, 12:02 PM
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LVT installation - best practices

Hi, I am installing new LVT in my bathrooms. Using new LVT to replace some sheet linoleum in some parts and carpeting in other parts. The LVT I am using is a very thick (I believe commercial grade) Milliken tile that is in 36" square sheets. My first bathroom went just fine, no problems, simple strip out the old linoleum, sand underlayment smooth, dry cut & fit, then final fit with recommended adhesive.

The second bathroom is a Jack & Jill style arrangement with the shower & toilet in the middle, then sinks at each end in the respective bedrooms. The shower section currently has linoleum, the other sections carpet. So on the carpet areas I will have to install underlayment, probably use Moreland UltraplyXL, looks easy to use, will match the thickness of the other underlayment, and I can get at the blue & white big box store. Here are my questions.
  • Do you glue down the underlayment? The existing underlayment sections are not glued down, but should you?
  • Do you use a patching material between joints and over nail heads? The exisiting underlayment used it over their staple heads. However that linoleum was much thinner than this LVT, I am sure it needed a perfectly smooth surface.
  • How do I cut / arrange the tiles thru the doorways? I have two doorways to go thru with these tiles and remember 36" square tiles. Do I make the tile split straight across the doorway (jam to jam). Or do I have the factory seam somewhere in the middle of the doorway along the walkway area (in other words long way thru it).
  • I am struggling with tile layout and which works best with minimal waste. The area in front of the shower is less than 30" wide, so 1 cut down tile across it works best, but that may not work on either side given the doorways. Where are the worst places to have seams?

If you could provide a link to some Best Practices sheet or website that would be very helpful.

FYI, the tile does not have specific pattern to it, thus the tiles and their joints do not necessarily need to all run the same way. However I did so for the 1st bathroom I completed, it was relatively easy to do so with that mostly square room size.

I look forward to your replies and thanks for your help. Mike
 
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Old 12-03-19, 03:59 PM
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No you NEVER glue down underlayment. You only need to fill and sand nails/staples and seams under vinyl sheet goods, not LVT. You undercut jambs, and if your flooring needs to run through a doorway, you just need to plan so that you don't create a piece that is impossible to install. Best practice is to just follow the mfg's instructions and plan ahead. Figuring out your layout is key. Can't do that for you.
 
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Old 12-03-19, 04:05 PM
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So on the carpet areas I will have to install underlayment
Vinyl tile does not require an underlayment, why are you thinking it is needed?
 
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Old 12-03-19, 04:09 PM
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Using new LVT to replace some sheet linoleum in some parts and carpeting in other parts.
That's why. He already has underlayment in some areas so needs to match the height.
 
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Old 12-04-19, 06:27 AM
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Yes, the new underlayment is needed to match heights. The toilet flange is set even with the current underlayment level. So the areas that used to be carpeted will need underlayment to match.

So my main question still exists on layout. Specifically tile at / thru the doorway. Do I seam it across the doorway, jamb-to-jamb, or long ways across the walkway part of the doorway?

Regarding the jambs, Yes I will undercut as needed. Have done that already in the past & not a problem for me.

Thanks Mike
 
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Old 12-04-19, 06:42 AM
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Either way. Can't see the room so can't tell you specifically. You just can't create a piece that is impossible to put in. It can't be wider than the doorway AND span both sides of the jamb.

You either need to have a seam running through the doorway (perpendicular to the closed door) or somewhere under the door (when it's closed). Often it looks best when tile is layer out so as to be symmetrical with the doorway, since that is generally the traffic area it usually looks best that way... Assuming that doesn't create some problem at the edge of the room (like creating a sliver against a wall or tub). If that's the way you are planning your layout, then the seam needs to be under the closed door.

Since this is a jack and Jill, if the two doors are parallel to each other you would need to see where the seam would fall under the next door. In your case the distance between doors would need to be some increment of 3 ft (+/- a few inches) If that's not going to work, then you obviously can't do your layout that way and you would need to put your seam perpendicular to the doorways. Start with a chalkline as a reference line through the doorways and make sure you start everything straight with that line.
 
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Old 12-04-19, 06:51 AM
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Height, got it!

Personalty, for bathrooms I always install a marble or some kind of stone threshold under the door.

Having that neutral threshold eliminates having to worry about where the seams meet at or under the door!

And, it would eliminate the need for the underlayment since the different heights are now separated!
 
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