Fixing large hole in floor tile around a pipe


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Old 08-15-16, 10:46 AM
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Fixing large hole in floor tile around a pipe

I'm trying to cover up a rather large jagged hole that a plumber made when installing washing machine water lines to run to the second floor. I think he just took a hammer a smashed a hole in the middle of a tile (tiles are 2ftx2ft) and ran the pipe up. I'm not 100% sure but I don't think it's a ceramic tile either. The hole is about 6in x 6in.

I was thinking at first to use something like silicone, but there is no backing for the silicone to stick to. So it's going to be difficult, and I'd want to keep the bugs and possibly rodents and I don't think silicone will do that. Is there any kind of cement that I can use, I need something sturdy but at the same time somewhat presentable.
 
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Old 08-15-16, 11:03 AM
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Pictures would help us help you. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/li...rt-images.html Step back far enough we can see some of the surrounding area.
 
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Old 08-15-16, 09:34 PM
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Sorry don't have pictures, can't get them until tomorrow. There is not much to really show, what exactly do you need to see? It's a star shaped hole through the middle of which a pipe comes through. It doesn't have to be an down to a t, just throw out some suggestions.
 
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Old 08-15-16, 11:02 PM
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Is it small enough for an escutcheon?
 
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Old 08-16-16, 06:00 AM
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6x6 is pretty big.
You could fill the gaps around the pipe with grout, but it would need a backer under the floor.
If adding a wood backer under the floor isn't an option, you can try to fill the gaps with the largest caulk backer rod you can find and then grout over it.
Another option is to make your own split escutcheon using a tile or some type of thin material.
 
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Old 08-16-16, 06:37 AM
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I was thinking along same lines as Brian....Get a tile large enough to cover the hole, drill a hole in it for the pipe, then cut it in half and install it around the pipe on top of existing tile using silicone caulk to hold it in place.

Tile doesn't have to match, although it would look nicest if it did. If you can get a corner tile with two rounded edges it would look even nicer.

You could even cut out the existing tile with a diamond blade in an angle grinder to inset the new tile flush with the existing.

I'd probably seal around the hole with spray foam first, and then just trim the foam flush.
 
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Old 08-16-16, 02:25 PM
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Don't you just love plumbers - be it a ceiling or a floor, cut a hole, get paid and walk away. I would look to see of you can find a complimentary tile to the rest of the room. Was the tile installed directly on plywood or did they use a backer board? If directly on tile, you may be able to harvest a chunk that is not broken, cut it and then fill in the now square or rectangle hole with a new complimentary tile. Wrap the pipe in a foam insulation sheath, use chicken wire as a base to hold some bedding mortar to build up where the void is.

While you may not think it helps, a picture sure would help guide answers that are more specific to your needs.
 
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Old 08-20-16, 07:46 AM
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Sorry guys, couldn't respond right away. I did read all the suggestions though, and thought @Handyone had the most doable one. I also considered creating an escutcheon tile as you guys suggested but I don't have the saw at the moment altough I do have plenty of tiles left over from when I was laying the floor. That would have probably been the best.

Anyways what I ended up doing was densely packing the hole with foil and then pouring EasySand (it's a waterproof joint compound akin to cement) in the well. It's a good thing that the floor was really thick, about 4 in of cement, so I think the easysand will have a good grip even if the foil backer fails. Right? Or can it still fall out, there's a lady living on the first floor and I can kind of see her house throught the hole I don't want this piece falling through. Although it shouldn't really since I made sure I made slightly overlap the floor and go around the pipes, so I think it's got enough grip to hold on even if the bond breaks. I just didn't have enough time to get these backer rods, as Handy suggested, my friend read me your responses over the phone while I was at the site. Anyhow thanks for the help.
 
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Old 08-20-16, 08:34 AM
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Easy Sand is joint compound and not cement, so the long term effects of this type repair will be questionable. It will probably crack and come loose. I would have used concrete repair material, but what's done is done.
 
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Old 08-20-16, 09:54 AM
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I think you will be OK with the setting type compound. I use the 20 minute and it has very good adhesion and pretty much no shrinkage.
 
 

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