Replacing a tile in a bathroom with broken dywall.

There was some repair done a while ago in my house and they've made a hole in my bathroom wall. One tile about 12x12 in size was taken out and the drywall behind it was removed also. Now it's just exposed insulation. I was wondering how I can install a backer so I can put a new piece of drywall? There is no stud visible through the hole, and even if it's a few inches away I doubt I'll have enough space to fit a piece of wood and a drill to screw in the backer. So what are some of the options I have?

 

Easy fix. Get some scrap pieces of drywall. Glue them behind the back surface of the wall board hole allow at least an inch sticking beyond the hole. Elmer's white glue works fine. Cut new piece of wallboard (backer board should be used in a wet location) and glue it to the pieces you glued to the back side. Tape and/or patch without tape as you prefer. I've used this method for years and never had a failure.

Many guys will want to use wood strips and screws, but why bother with all that? You can glue paint stick if you don't have any wall board scraps. It's strong. Don't worry.

Then replace your tile accordingly.

If you can't add backer to all four sides then just use two or three sides. It will work just fine.

 

I generally use scrap lumber and would only attach it to 2 sides for a hole that size. Get some fast setting adhesive and install the wood strips you will attach the drywall to. I wouldn't bother to tape it if it's getting covered by tile. I assume this is in a dry location.

 

Marksr,

They said a bathroom wall. I'm assuming the worse and suggested backer board. Maybe some red guard also. I would also strongly suggest the four sides for support if a 12" square tile is being put up. That's a bit heavy and if in the tub or shower area it may be pushed against. Maybe the wood strips with screws is a good idea in reference to my above statements. But I never had a problem with just the wall board and glue, even in areas of wet environment.

 

If it's drywall in a wet location it won't make much difference if just one square is replaced with cement board. Hopefully it's dry location, if not the tile and drywall behind it will need replacing sooner or later.

 

Thanks. Seems a bit unorthodox but hey if it gets the job done that's all I really care about. I actually have some really strong tile epoxy and spare plywood, so it should be good. It is in a wet location, 4ft away from the shower cab, but there is drywall installed along the whole wall, I can still see the broken bits sticking out from the hole, so it probably wouldn't make sense to just back that one square with cement board. Thanks, great advice as always.

edit: I mean wood strips with scews would be ideal, it's not really in a commonly pushed on area, just a random segment adjacent the door to the bathroom, however it's on shoulder height so it possibly could be pushed against. You're saying this method with glue will collapse if I push on it? I'm just not sure how I would screw anything in there, you mean I have to screw through the adjacent tiles?

 

If it's not inside the shower - it's not usually considered a wet location since it shouldn't subjected to water splashed or sprayed onto it. Tile over drywall is fine providing it's not a tub surround or shower wall.

 

Both you and Marksr are correct. Using a piece of backer board in one spot won't accomplish anything. Again I made an assumption that the whole thing was backer board.

Don't mean to contradict Marksr, but if you do a good job of tiling and grouting and the rest of the wall is sound, I doubt you will have trouble in the future.

My house was built in the early 70's and just plane drywall was used in bathrooms and kitchen. All wet areas are as good as new. When I remod'd my main bath I did replace the tub area with backer board, but that original wall board was as dry and hard as when new.

 

Greenboard behind tiled tub surrounds and showers was the norm back in the 70's and 80's. Back then the only other choice was a mud wall which took more skill/money. The drywall holds up fine until it starts getting wet which is a lot to ask of the grout and caulk. If either fails and isn't repaired shortly - that's the beginning of the end. Glad you got lucky.

 

I use hot melt glue to secure the wood blocks to the back of the drywall. I then glue the repair piece to the backing.
I carry a glue gun on every job, they come in handy.

 

As Brian says, just glue is fine. But try to do all four sides if possible. And hot glue is a good way to go.

 

Allright, I will try it today. Don't have hot glue just general epoxy, hope that works. Thanks for all the help.

By the way I am pretty lucky that the whole wall didn't dissolve, as Marksr said. The hole has been open for a while so the moisture could have definitely gotten in.

 

If your adhesive doesn't set fast enough for you to let go of the lumber you can take another piece of wood [longer than the hole] and screw it to the backer piece sandwiching it in place, then just unscrew it when the adhesive is dry.