Wallpaper removal nightmare, used the steamer, used the spray

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Old 11-28-16, 07:06 AM
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Wallpaper removal nightmare, used the steamer, used the spray

Need to remove a bunch of wallpaper.
Tried the steamer and tried the spray.
This is a arduous process.
There has to be a better way.

Searched the 'net and didn't find much else, any ideas?
 
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Old 11-28-16, 07:23 AM
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Are you scoring the paper first? you have to get the adhesive behind the paper wet and water/steam won't always penetrate the paper.
 
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Old 11-28-16, 07:26 AM
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Unfortunately, what you're calling a nightmare is relatively standard; wallpaper just sucks.
 
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Old 11-28-16, 02:45 PM
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Did you first peel off as much of the facing as you could by hand, before using any spray? Generally you can tear the wallpaper facing off which then just leaves the backing. Spray the backbacking that is left on the wall with DIF or similar and hot water in a garden sprayer, then scrape it right off with a wide putty knife. The more difficult kinds to remove necessitate the little paper tiger scoring tools to help the DIF soak in.
 
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Old 11-28-16, 05:07 PM
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I most times end up replacing drywall. Hate wall paper.
 
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Old 11-29-16, 03:18 AM
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The vinyl face doesn't always peel off but if it does - the job is a LOT easier!

Scoring [cutting] the face of the paper helps a lot. The moisture must get to the adhesive. IMO water works just as well as any of the homemade or commercially prepared paper strippers.

Here is one example of a scoring wheel - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Piranha-Wal...g-Tool/3036950
 
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Old 11-29-16, 05:51 PM
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Talking Try this, too

Once your towels are laid down along the baseboard, use a garden sprayer starting top-down. Soak the surface but not so much as to have it streaming down the walls. Work with 3-5 feet width at a time. buy a chep 9x12 painter's plastic and cut a section of this thin sheet plastic large enough to cover what you just sprayed, AFTER spraying it two or three times (3-5 minutes between spray applications). The idea here is to trap the removal solution on the surface of the wallpaper and force it to soak into and attack the adhesive while at the same time preventing it from evaporating off the surface.
Remove the sheet plastic; set it aside for re-use or cut another and try again to remove the backing from the wall after a good soaking, preferably in as large a piece as possible so work on a forty-five degree angle from the vertical edge, this time bottom-to-top. Try to work from the vertical seams-inward, starting at the seam when at all possible. That's were you will get hard-to-remove stuff to give a little. I would recommend a Warner 4" blade scrapper. I think Harbor Freight sells them, too. If you HAVE to scrape this mess off, I would elect to go with a sharp tool and, by-reason-of-use, learn how much of an angle you need to use while scraping so that you can learn to shave the wallpaper off without digging into the wallboard. This can produce a wicked cut, it caution isn't exercised..the four inch blades are razor sharp. It takes some time to get used to the amount of angle you want on the blade when it meets the wall.
After (TOO) many years of contracting removals, I can assure you that it isn't the wallpaper that causes these nightmare scenarios. It's the lack of one simple step prior to the original installation...It probably was never primed with a "pre-wallpaper" primer/sealer. It's a latex and dries quickly and when it is dry, you have a vapor barrier that forces the wet adhesive on the new wallpaper to dry OUT, through the surface of the wallpaper, rather than being absorbed by the wallboard. When new wallcoverings are hung on plain old paint without the primer/vapor barrier, the adhesive/moisture from that new wallcovering gets through that old paint and bonds with it and the wallboard, creating a much more difficult removal. It's never the wallpaper itself...and I don't care much what others think of my opinion, now, since I am retired.
Either way (steam or solution), it can by messy. When I had more than one room, I would hate to have to go home, tired, and have to wash all of those soaked towels that I used to absorb the solution at the baseboard and then dry and fold them to be used again the next day.
If you get strips that are full width to come off, pull slowly and make sure that you have an easy release so that you aren't pulling off the paint and the drywall surface as you're pulling on the wallpaper. As you pull up on loosening wallpaper, pull on 45 degree angles and pull slowly, constantly checking to insure that wallboard isn't pulling off with the paper. You can take full strips if they are paper-backed vinyl and lay them along your wall at the baseboard surface side up and have more floor protection that you can throw away. hope that covers it...still having issues, reply again
YOU CAN DO IT! Good luck
 
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Old 12-01-16, 05:28 AM
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This is working so far, the scraping is fairly easy, thanks
 
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Old 12-01-16, 05:59 AM
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Try to remove them with Stripping Solution (vinegar+hot water). Soak a paint roller (sponge or large paint brush) in this mix. Saturate one section of the wall. Wait for a few minutes. Strip the wallpaper with a plastic putty knife. Peel upwards.
 
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Old 12-01-16, 03:14 PM
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Unprimed sheetrock seems to hold the glue more firmly than primed or painted walls. We just did a bathroom with raw sheetrock and it was a bear to do. I agree to do small sections and don't let the DIF dry out, or you'll have to spend the $6.99 again or try it with just water.
 
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Old 12-02-16, 03:08 AM
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Removing wallpaper from bare drywall is an almost impossible task When I run into that I'll normally remove any that is loose, coat the wallpaper with oil base primer, skim coat, sand and prime.

There are certain primers that when used prior to hanging wallpaper will make it's eventual removal easier. As long as the paste can set on top of the paint/primer instead of soaking thru, removal will be fairly easy. I once stripped wallpaper that was hung over multiple coats of oil base enamel, that paper came off so well you almost could have hung it back somewhere else
 
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