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Drywall walls meet Tongue & Groove Ceiling - how to fill holes

Drywall walls meet Tongue & Groove Ceiling - how to fill holes

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  #1  
Old 05-19-16, 03:11 PM
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Question Drywall walls meet Tongue & Groove Ceiling - how to fill holes

Hi,

I must not know the keywords to google this because I'm sure this is a problem that has been solved. I am putting up drywall on the walls of a room with a tongue and groove ceiling. In other places in the house the builder filled the grooves with mud but looks lumpy and ugly.

Do you have any ideas on how to fill the groove gaps that will look nicely finished?

Here is photo of the corner where drywall will meet T&G:
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Here is how it has been done elsewhere in the house:
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  #2  
Old 05-19-16, 03:31 PM
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I'd use trim molding to make it look more complete. The valleys can be caulked. Put the caulk on top of the trim just before installing, enough so it squirts out when you press it up. Wait five to ten minutes then wipe off the excess with a damp sponge. Tip: have a five gallon bucket to clean the sponge in as you wipe.

Trim molding can be as simple as quarter round or 1x2 or something fancier.

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  #3  
Old 05-19-16, 03:33 PM
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About the best your going to get is with latex caulking with a ceiling like that.
What you have could have been sanded out far better then that was before it was painted.
 
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Old 05-19-16, 03:35 PM
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I googled 'molding for tongue & groove ceiling' Then click on images.
 
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Old 05-20-16, 03:21 AM
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Using a molding looks best and gives you a nice straight edge to cut the wall color to - assuming the wall would get painted a different color than the ceiling.
 
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Old 05-20-16, 01:20 PM
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Thanks for the molding and caulking ideas.

I tried to find a google image that showed caulking applied to molding on T&G but I couldn't find any examples with deep valley T&G. Once the valley gets a certain size the wet cloth method doesn't work very well. I found this out caulking the valleys of the T&G soffits where they met the exposed rafters on the outside of the home.

I bought some sandable wood filler that I'm going to try but that is going to be an expensive option and I'm not sure how to sand down in the valley and get a nice flat surface with 90 degree edges.

Maybe I should have photographed the t&g with a tape measure to show scale. The valley is 1/2" deep, 1 1/2" wide at the widest and 3/4" wide at the base. Give or take a fraction of an inch depending on how well the boards were seated together.
 
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Old 05-20-16, 01:43 PM
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I've caulked 1/2" gaps before but IMO it would look best uncaulked if using molding, especially if a different color is applied to the wall.
 
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Old 05-20-16, 01:53 PM
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Yes, uncaulked is good to. Sometimes I get carried away and over suggest.
 
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