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About to do my first major drywall repair that involves taping, tips and advice?

About to do my first major drywall repair that involves taping, tips and advice?

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  #1  
Old 12-30-16, 11:48 AM
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About to do my first major drywall repair that involves taping, tips and advice?

So my basement bathroom vanity P-trap was leaking for a while. Which damaged the vanity as well as some drywall. I have already cut away water damaged drywall, as well as bunch of drywall that just broke apart due to my brutal force approach to removing baseboards and vanity. The framing plate is bit stained but otherwise in perfect condition.

It is not a big area, but it will be my first time taping joints. Have some experiencing patching up small drywall holes, but nothing this big.

Photo for reference: Imgur: Drywall cut out.

Just wondering if anyone have any tips or advice?

1. Should i get a single piece cut out to fit the area I cut out? or two pieces. I have a small car, and will most likely get the guys at big box store to cut out the shape for me.

2. paper tape or fiber glass tape? Which is better for a beginner?

3. How much gap should I leave between the concrete basement floor and the new drywall?

4. What are some tips and tricks to get a smooth even finish at taped areas?

Thanks.

PS: the wet stain on the back of the opposite drywall is not from the leak, but from my concrobium mold spray.
 
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  #2  
Old 12-30-16, 12:17 PM
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#1 - doesn't really matter, I'd check out some homes under construction - they'd probably give you what you need out of the scrap pile.

#2 - paper tape does a better job. mesh tape needs to be coated over with a setting compound to lock it down. Generally ready mix joint compound is easier for a novice. The main thing is to have a thin layer of j/c under the tape [that's the glue] and remove any excess with your knife. The tape coat needs to be dry before you add more j/c as remudding too soon can pull the tape loose.

#3 - 1/2"

#4 - apply the mud neatly with each coat being wider than the previous. A 5"-6" knife works good for the 1st coat, 8"-10" for the 2nd and 10"-12" for the final coat. I'd rather apply an extra coat of mud than have to do any extra sanding.
 
  #3  
Old 12-30-16, 05:43 PM
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Awesome, thanks.

Another quick question. Is it with it to use mold resistant drywall? None of the existing drywall is mold resistant.

Thanks.
 
  #4  
Old 12-31-16, 03:55 AM
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Mold resistant drywall is better for basements as they tend to be humid but with a small repair it doesn't really make much difference.
 
  #5  
Old 12-31-16, 05:02 AM
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If I was going to do this I would cut all the dry wall along the top cut to the next stud out of picture and use 1 piece in cut out. I find it easier to work with a large piece and few seams. Be sure to bed your tape in your mud well. If not tape will pop out of mud later. Only cut to middle of stud or add a nailer next to stud.
 
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