Suspended ceiling
#1
Suspended ceiling
I am trying to layout a ceiling, the room is 10'10" wide , perpendicular to the joists, how should I layout the main T's ? For 2X2 panels.
Geo
Geo
#2
Try using armstrong's calculator. https://www.armstrongceilings.com/dr...lculator/en-us
I would probably run the main tees perpendicular to your joists. But you only gave us one dimension so that doesn't help much.
I would probably run the main tees perpendicular to your joists. But you only gave us one dimension so that doesn't help much.
#3
Sorry,10'10"X 14, I will run the mains perpendicular to the joists,they run across the 10'10" Dia.
Geo
That's the link I was looking for I believe
Geo
That's the link I was looking for I believe
Last edited by Geochurchi; 07-19-17 at 02:33 PM. Reason: Add comment
#4
I know you didnt ask, but one thing to keep in mind is that an acoustical ceiling will look best if everything is centered so that your perimeter panels are symetrical and as large as possible. So for example take your 10' 10" dimension. Don't start with a full panel on one side of the room so that you end up with a 10" one. That's a real rookie/homeowner move. And try to avoid centering a full panel in the room which makes a 5" piece on each side. (Unless you need to do that because of lighting) It might look best if the tee is centered in the room so that you end up with 1' 5" pieces on those two perimeters.
And I know 14' is divisible by 2, but if there is any chance 14' might be 14' 0 1/2"... or that your room is really out of square, it might be best to shift your tee layout over 1' so that you have the option of cutting those perimeter panels too... in case you need one side to taper from 12 to 12 1/2" or something. You are kind of screwed when it's a full 24" panel and you find out you need that extra 1/2". (Too late)
When installing, I like to put the main tees up first, then separate them into 4x4 squares with 4' tees, then cut those 4x4 squares with a perpendicular 4' tee (between the pair of 4' tees). I think that's the way Armstrong calculator figures it.
I also measure for square as soon as possible. So once the 3 main tees are up... create a big 8x8 square in the middle of the room by putting in four 4' tees. Cut some temporary scraps of wood to center and hold that square between each wall. Once it's fixed, measure the diagonals of that 8x8 square to see if it's square. Let's say it's 1" out of square... now you can decide how you want to tweak it to square it up... Cutting those scraps longer or shorter as needed. This establishes the length you will cut all the perimeter tees... because they won't all be "exactly" the same unless the room is perfectly square.
And I know 14' is divisible by 2, but if there is any chance 14' might be 14' 0 1/2"... or that your room is really out of square, it might be best to shift your tee layout over 1' so that you have the option of cutting those perimeter panels too... in case you need one side to taper from 12 to 12 1/2" or something. You are kind of screwed when it's a full 24" panel and you find out you need that extra 1/2". (Too late)
When installing, I like to put the main tees up first, then separate them into 4x4 squares with 4' tees, then cut those 4x4 squares with a perpendicular 4' tee (between the pair of 4' tees). I think that's the way Armstrong calculator figures it.
I also measure for square as soon as possible. So once the 3 main tees are up... create a big 8x8 square in the middle of the room by putting in four 4' tees. Cut some temporary scraps of wood to center and hold that square between each wall. Once it's fixed, measure the diagonals of that 8x8 square to see if it's square. Let's say it's 1" out of square... now you can decide how you want to tweak it to square it up... Cutting those scraps longer or shorter as needed. This establishes the length you will cut all the perimeter tees... because they won't all be "exactly" the same unless the room is perfectly square.
#5
Thanks good info, I agree with not starting at one wall and working from there, I guess the cheapest solution is to use all 2X4 tiles and have the end tiles about 43" or so, I want the center left open for light fixtures.
Geo
Geo
#7
Agreed with the 2X2 looking better but the budget doesn't care about look's, I did have it laid out with 2X4 down the center and 2X2's on the edges and it looked nice but to much for now.
Geo
Geo