Airtight drywall approach

Old 11-20-19, 08:38 AM
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Airtight drywall approach

Trying to get drywall installed as airtight as possible, and had a couple of questions.

1. Great Stuff makes a drywall gasket spray foam, but unfortunately it requires its own foam gun because it's water-based (can't use regular foam gun, which I have), and there doesn't seem to be a straw applicator version of this product. Instead, can I use polyurethane caulk (such as Loctite PL Premium construction adhesive), and apply it to the framing (top/bottom plates and studs) where the perimeter of each drywall piece will attach?

2. The wall framing isn't exactly flush (some of the studs are a little twisted). I was thinking 1/2" drywall would more easily flex and make a better seal against the framing than 5/8" drywall. Is this correct? If I can get just as good a seal with 5/8" drywall, I'd rather go with that for the extra little bit of insulation.
Old 11-20-19, 08:54 AM
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First, if you have ever seen a drywall hammer, obviously used less to day than 40 years ago, but it has a checked hammer face on one side and a hatchet on the other. Why a hatchet, because you need to do all that is necessary to remove those twists and bends before the drywall goes up. maybe a lost step now that everyone uses a screw gun, but it is still necessary.

So chip away at the high spots and remove the bends before you hang the drywall that will produce a better job and work well with your air sealing.


PS, don't forget to seal the sheathing to the studs and all seams on top and bottom plate.
Old 11-20-19, 09:19 AM
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1/2" sheetrock has an R value of about .45 while 5/8" is .56. Not enough difference in my mind to be worth the added expense and more importantly the extra weight if I'm the one installing it.
joecaption voted this post useful.

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