Airtight drywall approach
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Airtight drywall approach
Trying to get drywall installed as airtight as possible, and had a couple of questions.
1. Great Stuff makes a drywall gasket spray foam, but unfortunately it requires its own foam gun because it's water-based (can't use regular foam gun, which I have), and there doesn't seem to be a straw applicator version of this product. Instead, can I use polyurethane caulk (such as Loctite PL Premium construction adhesive), and apply it to the framing (top/bottom plates and studs) where the perimeter of each drywall piece will attach?
2. The wall framing isn't exactly flush (some of the studs are a little twisted). I was thinking 1/2" drywall would more easily flex and make a better seal against the framing than 5/8" drywall. Is this correct? If I can get just as good a seal with 5/8" drywall, I'd rather go with that for the extra little bit of insulation.
1. Great Stuff makes a drywall gasket spray foam, but unfortunately it requires its own foam gun because it's water-based (can't use regular foam gun, which I have), and there doesn't seem to be a straw applicator version of this product. Instead, can I use polyurethane caulk (such as Loctite PL Premium construction adhesive), and apply it to the framing (top/bottom plates and studs) where the perimeter of each drywall piece will attach?
2. The wall framing isn't exactly flush (some of the studs are a little twisted). I was thinking 1/2" drywall would more easily flex and make a better seal against the framing than 5/8" drywall. Is this correct? If I can get just as good a seal with 5/8" drywall, I'd rather go with that for the extra little bit of insulation.
#2
Member
First, if you have ever seen a drywall hammer, obviously used less to day than 40 years ago, but it has a checked hammer face on one side and a hatchet on the other. Why a hatchet, because you need to do all that is necessary to remove those twists and bends before the drywall goes up. maybe a lost step now that everyone uses a screw gun, but it is still necessary.
So chip away at the high spots and remove the bends before you hang the drywall that will produce a better job and work well with your air sealing.
Bud
PS, don't forget to seal the sheathing to the studs and all seams on top and bottom plate.
So chip away at the high spots and remove the bends before you hang the drywall that will produce a better job and work well with your air sealing.
Bud
PS, don't forget to seal the sheathing to the studs and all seams on top and bottom plate.
#3
Group Moderator
1/2" sheetrock has an R value of about .45 while 5/8" is .56. Not enough difference in my mind to be worth the added expense and more importantly the extra weight if I'm the one installing it.
joecaption
voted this post useful.