Pilot stays lit, thermostat doesn't click / burner off

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Old 11-03-18, 08:03 AM
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Pilot stays lit, thermostat doesn't click / burner off

I have a Rheem Pro50-40F hot water heater. installed April 2012, manufacture date 11/11.

This is a

Not getting hot water - wife was in shower

Rushing, I didn't look for pilot light being lit. followed the instructions to relight pilot (it has the piezo pushbutton / little window to see pilot.

After 15 minutes, pilot is staying lit.

But turning the thermostat (manual type), it doesn't click at all / burner does not turn on.

Any advice?

It appears there's 2 thermocouple lines coming from the combustion area to the valve.

Looking in the little window, things look clean / and pilot is staying lit.
 
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Old 11-03-18, 08:25 AM
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So is that 2 thermocouples? 1 for the pliot (which is good) and one for the burner (which is bad?)

THat I;m not getting any clicking from the thermostat / contacts not closing makes me think it's the thermostat (metal box with the dial on it). Can I open that / any thing in there to test / override to get it running?

There's torx security screws on the gas valve unit, so I guess they don't want you in there : )
 
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Old 11-03-18, 08:50 AM
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OK, after about 20 minutes, I go look at it again - burning is running.

Do pilot lights just go out? The house furnace has a pilot light and still running (does air ever get in the incoming gas line?).

It's working... just move on / don't do anything about this for now?
 
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Old 11-03-18, 05:27 PM
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Doubtful there is two thermocouples. You may have been looking a thermocouple tube and the pilot light tube. I'd need the complete mode number off the tag to comment further.

Standing pilot in a furnace.
Isn't time to replace that old unit ?
 
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Old 11-03-18, 08:00 PM
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it's model RHGPro50-40F which on the Rheem site (not on the label itself) it says that is a model: 42VR50FV

There's 2 tin tubes coming from the gas valve to the combustion area and 1 larger tube. Looking into it more, yeah, 1 thin is the thermocouple and 1 thin is the gas line for the pilot, the large one is the gas line for the burner?!

I rush into things and cause my own problems. I do know when I first went to the heater, the water was cold (based on my wife saying something in the shower (could the shower valve mess up and the gas water heater was running fine??) I'd think maybe? but when I turned the temp dial on the gas valve of the water heater, I didn't get a click as the contacts open / close.

I tuend off the gas and did the relight pilot steps. Got the pilot lit right away and afer 10 -15 minutes, still no click from turning the temp dial. I left it at about where we usually keep it (C on the ABC scale on the dial).

Only maybe 25 minutes later was the burner going and I was able to get a click when turning the
dial.

shouldn't there be a mechanical click of the contacts regardless if the burner being on / off?

The gas valve has torx security screws. I have those so I can open it. Do things fall out / not advised? just to see if there's cobwebs or charred contacts?
 
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Old 11-03-18, 08:07 PM
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Oh, as for the house heater, yeah, I guess it should be replaced? We own the house 22 years and it was here when we got here. gas fired hot water radiators. It does work. What's the life of them? Like a water heater? replace before there's a flood in the basement because they crack?

the house boiler is a slant-fin S-150D with a 82.28 AFUE (the yellow energy sticker is still on it. the range is 80 to 90 AFUE, with the arrow near the 80 : (
 
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Old 11-04-18, 06:38 AM
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Slowly turn the dial all the way down (to "vacation" or "zero" or "off". Then slowly turn the dial all the way up. stopping if it clicks and the burner turns on.

Then slowly turn the dial to where you want the temperature, usually between "warm" and "hot."

If you consistenly have problems turning the burner on manually this way and also you have no hot water then you probably need a new control box. For a water heater more than ten years old it is probably worth replacing the whole thing.
 
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Old 11-05-18, 03:42 PM
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Thanks for the information!

That's basically what I was doing - turning the temp diall all the way down, then turning it up, expecting at some point to hear the click of the contacts making / breaking the connection / the burner coming on.

But I wasn't getting any click / indication that the thermostat was reaching the water temp... cause the water was so cold? But the burner didn't come on.

But again, came back after 20 minutes and the burner was on (I had set the temp dial where it usually is) and spinning the dial had that expected click from the contacts. and now 2 days later, we still have hot water.

I called rheem today and the person I was talking to thought it was the gas valve (tAllan - that's the control box you talk of, right?).

They gave me the part number SP14270H, which appears to cost $125.

The unit was installed april /2012. came with 8 year warranty on liner and added the 4 year kit (anodes?) so 6.5 years old and liner is warrantied another 5.5 years.

Would you:

Buy the valve to keep as a spare? (And would you know if that's a common part usable on other heaters? or a very specific part that will have no use after this)

Buy and install the valve? I think I could do that myself, or then the cost of a plumber

Ignore the problem on the chance the problem returns on a weekend or other inopportune time : )

Open the gas valve cover ( I have the torx security bits that would be needed) and see if I see anything glaring going on - arcing on the contacts? spiderwebs?

ANy thoughts on Rheem as quality or not?

I guess even a reliable car like honda or toyota will have some cars that have some problems?

I do occassionally - every couple years - draw a couple gallons off the spigot at the botttom - and it's clear.

I like things to just work : )

thanks for dealing with me and my issues (oh, and the problems with the water heater <g>
 
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