Replace 10 year old hw tank?


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Old 01-04-19, 07:20 AM
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Replace 10 year old hw tank?

Have a hotpoint electric hw tank. I think it was manufactured in May 2009. Should I replace it? Our basement doesn’t have a floor drain, other than a sump pump in the far corner. Fully finished basement with carpet.

Are newer electric tanks more efficient than old ones? Are there any types of efficiency ratings other than the capacity and wattage? Insulation ratings?

Anything else to look out for when buying?
 
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Old 01-04-19, 05:19 PM
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With electric hot waters there really isn't an efficiency factor. It's not like gas..... with electric... every dollar of electricity goes directly to the heating element. With that being said.... the wattage of the element(s) only determine how fast the unit can recover. If you opt for a smaller element.... yes it will cost less to run but it will take more time to heat. No savings. As far as I know the only real improvement is the tank insulation and I'm not sure how much that can really be improved on.

Should you replace a ten year old water that if leaked or ruptured could ruin the basement.... YES.
You could get a few more years out of it but why risk it.
 
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Old 01-05-19, 04:03 AM
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May I suggest a water warden alarm. If the tank is working fine then no need to replace (although 10 years is expected life span).
 
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Old 01-05-19, 04:30 AM
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I have 13 years on my electric WH and I am on well water and long ago removed my anode rod meaning I should see more corrosion.

My last WH lasted close to 20 years but realize there is no way you will ever know!

Typ you will not experience a catastrophic failure, meaning 50 gallons of water all of a sudden get released, but more likely you will note a leak giving you time to react.

I am proactive on maintenance but replacing a working appliance is not something I would do!
 
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Old 01-05-19, 09:07 AM
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Are newer electric tanks more efficient than old ones?

Yes. The minimum efficiency standards were increased in April 2015.

https://hotwatersolutionsnw.org/asse...-Guide_FNL.pdf


The Hotpoint water heater was an economy unit made by Rheem for sale at Home Depot. If it is working fine, why would you want to change it? Since you have no floor drains and only a sump with pump, the water heater should have been installed in a pan that was piped to the sump. If this is what you have, I wouldn't even think about changing the unit if it is not leaking. If there is no pan under the water heater, you need to be aware that a pan should be used under any replacement water heaters. Still, I wouldn't lose sleep over it. When water heaters begin to leak they usually just start with a wet spot around the base of the unit. Like has already been mentioned, it won't be a catastrophic failure flooding the basement.
 
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Old 01-05-19, 10:38 AM
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Existing tank does not have a drip tray. Piping in one when I get a new tank is impossible given the basement is finished and tank and sump pump are on opposite sides of the home.

Are there visible signs when a tank is starting to fail? Mine looks brand new with no signs of rust or corrosion anywhere. We have a water softener.
 
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Old 01-05-19, 11:46 AM
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Are there visible signs when a tank is starting to fail?
As mentioned you will see a leak, there really is no other visible sign since the take itself is inside the nice shiny case!
 
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Old 01-05-19, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Marq1 View Post
I am proactive on maintenance but replacing a working appliance is not something I would do!
I have lived through water heater failure, and a water heater is the one and only appliance I would replace prior to failure based on age alone.


In my previous home, the WH leaked. I replaced it promptly, but it left a stain on the wall of the garage. It didn't look like a big deal, but when I went to sell the house, the inspectors had to break into both sides of the drywall to check for mold. No mold, but the patching and painting was a pain.


My current home was built in 1988 and the WH appeared original. For me it was a no-brainer to replace it prior to failure after I moved in in 2012.
 
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Old 01-05-19, 01:50 PM
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A HW tank doesn't need a leak to fail. Reduced hot water is a tell tail sign along with having to up the temp knob.
 
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Old 01-06-19, 08:11 AM
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How about hw expansion tanks? Do they need regular replacing?
 
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Old 01-06-19, 08:38 AM
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Occasionally the membrane inside will rupture. Not common but can happen.
 
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Old 01-06-19, 08:45 AM
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Tank type water heaters do not have fixed life. My oil fired 8 year warranty 50 gallon tank is 20 years old. Will replace it when leak develops.

Preventive maintenance helps. Use small faucet on lower side of tank to flush out debris several times a year.

Even better, install a $30 Watts "whole house filter" on feed water line to tank. Top of Watts filter is rotating valve … Off, Filter and Bypass which makes replacing element a 5 minute job.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Watts-Wh-ld-P...259/2254308405

Also replace heater tank $25 anode every few years. When a manufacturer has different warranties for models it is often based on the number of anode-rods. More anodes, longer warranty.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Anode-Ro...oaAiSWEALw_wcB
 

Last edited by doughess; 01-06-19 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 01-06-19, 09:41 AM
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Use small faucet on lower side of tank to flush out debris several times a year.
On this point I'll disagree. Those flush valves on most units are cheap plastic valves that once opened will not seat properly and leak.

I've learned to never touch that valve. All my HW tanks have lasted 15 plus years, I'm currently on an 18 year plus old tank, and never flushed the unit. The efficiency on my current tank is poor and I will be replacing this spring. Never considered replacement of the anode rod. But after 10 to 15 years I'd rather get new parts altogether along with the warranty. I've only had to replace one thermocouple in my life.
 
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Old 01-06-19, 10:15 AM
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Debris collecting at bottom of tank facilitates breakdown of tank lining. Those valves are to flush out tank debris.

Manufacturer instructions say to use them. Never had one go bad.

Installing whole house filter can eliminate need to flush tank. Filter also removes particals that clog shower heads, sink faucet nozzles and boiler water pressure regulator valves.

Spending $25 on anode makes more sense to me than buying new water heater. Given that anodes are widely sold suggest a market for them. Even Homedepot sells them.

Warranties are often next to worthless after depreciation for age, etc.
 

Last edited by doughess; 01-06-19 at 01:03 PM.
 

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