Hey guys, Thanks in advance for the help! We purchased a home 2 years ago in Sarasota, FL. Unfortunately (and fortunately as I use water for a ton of things) the home came with well water only - a blessing and a curse. Being from Tennessee, this didn't really seem like a problem to me, but the well was drilled in the 50's, it's shallow, and the water is heavy in metal - Iron mainly. That being said, we purchased a whole house filtration system with auto-backwash (set daily), and a water softener. These are branded as "iron guard" and some for the softener, I can't remember the name, but it's catchy LOL. These are comparable to Fleck heads, and the whole house filter system is the one with the air pocket at the top. I'm still not sure if it's called air injection or aeration, but again, it's the one with the pocket at the top. Unfortunately for me, and my neighbors, we've been forced to learn more and more about our water as all the local companies refuse to either replace the media, shock the well, install a chlorinator, or come up with any solution that doesn't require buying a complete system from them. There are people buying whole new systems every 2-5 years out here because they don't know they can repack their backwashing systems..... Sorry to bore you with the long post, but I need some help. I recently purchased the following 1) 15 pound of filter gravel for for the base of the softener and the filter system 2) Birm filter media 3) Filox media 4) KDF 55 Filtration media 5) Granular Activated Carbon w/ coconut 6) KDF 85 Filtration media 7) I need resin for the softener, if you have any suggestions I really appreciate it I realize that I may have purchased too much, or there may be some redundancies in my purchases, however, it's been months where the water has started to smell bad, and now our current media (2 years old), is dead - the water is stinky like sulfur/eggs and metallic tasting as well. It also smells like metal. Could you please advise as to whether or not I purchased the correct items, if I'm missing anything, and what order your recommend I pack the filter and softener? I'm thinking from bottom to top: gravel -> kdf -> birm -> filox (for the filter) & gravel -> resin (softener) any suggestions would be great, thanks!

People have tracked me down in looking for the replacement motor for a Culligan softener or Iron Filter or even the Carbon unit and the Neut unit. Time marches on and the new parts are real hard to find as dealers no none or will not sell to some one other than a customer through a service call. There are used ones from time to time that show up but are picked up very quick often in with outs of getting posted as for sale. For awhile I have toyed with the idea of a replacement to the Culligan timer assembly, a replacement that removes the assembly and places another timer assembly in its place. I am doing this and trying to stay simple for the DIY types out there working on getting more life out of the Culligan system. The timer assembly that would work would be the Fleck 3200 12day or 7day timer assembly. The plastic cover that Culligan uses for their older systems say the Mark 89 or 812 or even the N8 will have to be cut depending on personal choice as to how to make room. There no right or wrong way only making sure that there is room for the assembly. There will also need to be some re-location of some of the wire points that Culligan did when they put the system together. There is also going to be the need of a few holes drilled for that re-location and the placing of the bracket for the mounting of the Fleck assembly. What will happen will be a working system that will not win a beauty contest but again it will work for any number of years to come, the media can be replaced, the tank? when it fails it will be time to replace the system. There are two things to remember, first system in bypass then start a cycle by moving the wheel with the salt settings clock wise and that will depressurize the system. Next that the system has been depressurized un plug the system as you will be working with electric. One will need to find a Fleck 3200 timer assembly , 12 or 7 day will work, as I have yet to figure the meter set up. It will need the pin wheel 0 to 160 minutes newer timer motor that is thinner than the older ones. Two micro switches one for home and one program, it would be good if the assembly came with the items as an assembly. The pin wheel will have pins for the backwash then spaces for the brine draw and slow rinse and then two or three pins for the combo of rapid rinse and brine refill. This will most likely take the better part of a day in cutting, drilling and fitting the items in place and getting the pins set. There is no rush in getting this done, take your time. There are photos that I am loading and should there be questions it might be a day or two but I should be able to get back with some answers. Think with a Very Large box The pdf files will have to be asked for as they will not load.