Plastic Welding - Substitutes for Welding Rods
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Canada
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Plastic Welding - Substitutes for Welding Rods
Hey all.
I'm looking to weld a crack in my radiator which is apparently Nylon based (PA) and don't have PA rods in my kit.
Have any had success sourcing materials around the home as substitutes for commercial welding rods?
In this particular case I'm looking for meltable Nylon stock.
I'm looking to weld a crack in my radiator which is apparently Nylon based (PA) and don't have PA rods in my kit.
Have any had success sourcing materials around the home as substitutes for commercial welding rods?
In this particular case I'm looking for meltable Nylon stock.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Canada
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Norm. I recently tried the JB Weld "High strength" Plastic Bonder (with proper prep) and it just peeled off when the radiator heated up.
To answer Marq above, plastic welding with the right rod and technique actually seems to yield great results for radiator cracks, though I totally understand the concern for heat and pressure.
To answer Marq above, plastic welding with the right rod and technique actually seems to yield great results for radiator cracks, though I totally understand the concern for heat and pressure.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Canada
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Figured I'd post a follow-up. Ended up buying 10 Nylon screws from Home Depot. They melted closer to the temperature of the radiator material than the Nylon cable ties I found.
The weld held well enough so I could drive my car back home without loads of steam coming from the rad.
I still consider the car driveable but I'm replacing the rad anyway because the seams seem to be giving out and the potential for another crack still exists.
The weld held well enough so I could drive my car back home without loads of steam coming from the rad.
I still consider the car driveable but I'm replacing the rad anyway because the seams seem to be giving out and the potential for another crack still exists.