Pressure switch cutting pump on and off after moving holding tank.

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Old 09-22-16, 02:14 PM
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Pressure switch cutting pump on and off after moving holding tank.

We replaced our water softener. In the process we moved the location of the water softener and one holding tank/pressure tank to where the water goes into the house. (previously the water softener and tank were outside of a window blocking the view of the water)

Everything was good for a few weeks then the pressure switch started cutting the pump on and off every few seconds. I know this is not good for the pump.

I have read that the pressure tank can only be a certain distance from the pump/pressure switch. I am guessing we have moved it to far. We have added air pressure to the tank hoping that would help, but it hasn't solved the issue.

What are my options at this point? Can I move the pressure switch?

Additional details: we have a second pressure tank from the same well at the old location but this tank feeds the irrigation system it does not go to the house.

We "t" the well to go to the irrigation system and tank 12 feet from the well and then the water for the house goes around the house to where we relocated the new water softener and the pressure tank.

All because I wanted the view. My husband isn't happy that this project still isn't working correctly... hopefully you can help me.
 
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Old 09-22-16, 02:49 PM
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I don't see why just moving the tank farther away from the pressure switch should cause the switch to cycle. I could see there being some pressure fluctuations due to the distance, but they should not be enough to cause the pump to kick on and off. I suspect something else has gone awry. Is there anything but pipe and fittings between the pressure switch and the tank, such as a valve or check valve or????

Start by draining the system and with the drain valve open, check the air pressure in both tanks. It should be 2-3 lbs below the cut in pressure of the pressure switch. So if you have a 30-50 pressure switch, set air in both tanks to 28 PSI. If 40-60 pressure switch, then 38 PSI. While you have the system drained, turn off the power, disconnect the pressure switch and remove it. Make sure the little pipe leading to the pressure switch is not plugged up with muck.
 
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Old 09-25-16, 02:37 PM
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Thanks Paul!

I have checked the pressure several times, in fact that has been the only approach I tried prior to posting this.

We also checked the small pipe, it doesn't look like it has gunk in it.

I did try a few things that have made the pump cycle. It doesn't seem like it is happening quite as often, but at the same time when the pump does come on, it cycles every time.

What is interesting, is if we run the sprinklers or the hose on the irrigation tank the pump turns on and runs normally. However when we run water in the house, from the tank we moved, that is when it seems to cycle.

I did hold the switch in the open position, so the pump would run without cycling and it ran normally.

The pressure valve on the system is reading about 50-60. I also adjusted the cut off pressure to lower so it wouldn't put too much pressure on the bladders in the older pressure tanks.

Any further suggestions? I probably need to check the pressure in the tanks again. Do you think that the pressure switch is good? It was a little corroded, but it makes me think it could be the distance due to things running fine on the irrigation system.


according to- Well Pump Short Cycling: What Causes "Water Pump Short Cycling" - a water pump turning on and off too rapidly - How to diagnose water pump short cycling and how to restore lost air in a building water pressure tank - private pump and well system do-i
Bad water pressure tank location: Locating the water pressure tank too far from or on a different level from the pressure control switch can cause pressure control switch bouncing and rapid water pump on-off cycling at the start or end of a water pump operating cycle. See Where to Locate the Replacement Water Pressure Tank
 
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Old 09-25-16, 03:03 PM
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When you moved the pressure tank and the softener..... what size pipe did you use ?

The problem occurs when using a low flow of water. That would not indicate a bad pressure switch.
 
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Old 09-25-16, 08:18 PM
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We used the existing pipe that went from the old location of the pressure tanks to where the water enters the house. We just changed the connections from the well and moved the equipment.

But to answer your question the pipe is a 1" pipe. It probably runs 130-150'.
 
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Old 09-25-16, 08:30 PM
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Do you have a pressure gauge by the pressure switch? What does it indicate while the cycling is happening? If you don't have a pressure gauge in the system, I suggest you get one of the ones that screws onto a hose fitting and attach it to the pressure tank drain valve so you can see what is happening to the pressure in the system.

You say the one pressure tank just services sprinklers, but if both tanks are just teed off the well, then both tanks are connected to everything, no? Or are there check valves isolating the two tanks?

And just to be sure...when you checked the pressure in the tanks you had all the water drained from both tanks, the drain valves open, and you checked the pressure at the Schrader valves with a tire gauge, correct?
 
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Old 09-26-16, 11:16 AM
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The pressure guage jumps as it cycles (the switch turns on and off so quickly) it usually jumps between 50-70 PSI.

There are no valves on the lines.

Yes the water pressure was released when we used a tire pump to check the pressure.

My dad came out today and recommends that we move the switch to the new location of the tank and send a wire back to the pump to communicate correctly.
 
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Old 09-29-16, 01:14 PM
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Actually my dad must have done something different when he checked the pressure. The switch and pump are no longer short cycling improperly and everything is running great!

Yay for Dad to the rescue!
 
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