Help with unique water well
#1
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Help with unique water well
I have a spring that has good water. I had it tested. It was in a trench about 5’ deep. I built a concrete cavity around where the water was coming up from the ground and snaked a 4” perforated PVC pipe throughout the cavity. Then I attached a 20’ solid 4” pipe to the end of the perforated pipe, covered everything up except about 2’ of the end of the solid pipe. At the end of the solid pipe, I put a 45 and attached another very short section of 4" pipe. This puts the very end of the pipe about 1' above the ground where the spring is. So, the water in the concrete cavity is also about a foot deep (I assume) and the cavity is about 10’ x 15’. Water has continued to flow out of the pipe for 15 years at the exact same rate. 300 GPH, no matter what season, wet or drought. I now want to pull water to the house for drinking. I will use a jet pump since I’ll only be pulling at a height of maybe 8’ and a distance of about 60’. I will shove the suction pipe up the end of the 4” outflow pipe about 20’ or so. This should put the foot valve about where the perforated pipe is. It will be in a horizontal position, not the typical vertical, but I think it will work since the head will be about 8' above the foot valve. I plan to also put a check valve next to the pump, which will be in my garage along with a tank. I have an opportunity to buy a brand new Goulds J5SH pump for $200. A steal. But since this is a higher pressure pump, kind of a booster pump, will it work on a standard pressure water holding tank? My plan is to get about a 30 gallon pressure tank. They are normally pre charged to 40 psi. I'm concerned the pump will over pressure the tank. How much adjustment is there on these pumps and these tanks? I'm brand new to this forum and brand new to wells. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
#2
Welcome to the forums.
Not addressing the safety and integrity of the water.
I don't think a foot valve will work horizontally. A single check valve in the line should be all that's needed. That pump should work fine. I left a link to its specs below. You can change the pre-charge air pressure in the tank to match the 30-50 psi setting.
document library/xylem/appliedwater-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/BJS-R2.pdf
Not addressing the safety and integrity of the water.
I don't think a foot valve will work horizontally. A single check valve in the line should be all that's needed. That pump should work fine. I left a link to its specs below. You can change the pre-charge air pressure in the tank to match the 30-50 psi setting.
document library/xylem/appliedwater-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/BJS-R2.pdf
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Thank you PJ. I kinda figured it would work. I wonder if it’s noisier than a standard J5S. I read somewhere that the only difference is that the SH has a different jet orfice and that it can be removed. No matter. If it’ll work, I’ll buy it. If it doesn’t work, I’ll just resell it. Thanks again. This is kind of a fun project. So far..., knock on wood.
#4
I have a J5SH mounted on a horizontal 20Gal tank in my cottage basement. It's controlled by a 30-50psi switch and has no trouble making that pressure or keeping up with demand. I can hear it run but I don't find it objectionable. In a garage should be even quieter. You could build an insulated box around it to silence it even more. The box might also help a bit with the pump sweating.
The SH version has greater GPH flow at higher pressures than the S version. I looked at the specs and saw how little GPH I would get at 50psi and chose the SH. At lower pressures & lower lift the S flows better.
The SH version has greater GPH flow at higher pressures than the S version. I looked at the specs and saw how little GPH I would get at 50psi and chose the SH. At lower pressures & lower lift the S flows better.
#5
I have a system that pulls water from a river for my cottage. The foot valve is horizontal, about 1 foot above the river floor. It works fine and has been for over 15 years. Same foot valve, never needed to change it.